tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61503447139290006222024-03-18T02:48:15.453-07:00Pell Wall Perfumes BlogArticles and information, musings and opinions, details and descriptions all about perfumes and perfume making from the perspective of a niche perfumer with a background in all sorts of other things.Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.comBlogger122125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-64935006341004189142018-09-19T01:53:00.000-07:002019-07-22T01:26:10.135-07:00Sandalore and hair growthAmazingly it was four years ago that <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2014/08/sandalwood-found-to-have-wound-healing.html" target="_blank">I posted about then new research demonstrating that the sandalwood odourant known as Sandalore (a brand name belonging to Givaudan) could have beneficial effects in wound healing</a>.<br />
<br />
Now, the press (among others the <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/news/health/baldness-cure-hair-loss-treatment-sandalwood-perfume-sandalore-smell-a8543391.html" target="_blank">Independent</a>, <a href="https://www.inverse.com/article/49079-balding-treatments-natural-sandalwood" target="_blank">Inverse</a> and the <a href="https://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-6180605/Going-bald-Rubbing-sandalwood-oil-scalp-stimulate-hair-growth.html" target="_blank">Daily Mail</a>) report that this same material can stimulate hair growth. The research was originally published in <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-018-05973-0" target="_blank">Nature Communications</a> where you’ll find a more sober assessment of the evidence.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipEKJMRDTPT5NbLQKyWpzE7twq6qsZ2jAW9VJCT3sZdjK-vL7_25XlDh69p4smzfMBmn0E9yI5GbFNFtX5nswWkN2LTBbaTfjusJc562DvDDLBshHpcw2NlwANrfcgkuqlDiN8qzY91l8S/s1600/Sandalore+Product+Image.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipEKJMRDTPT5NbLQKyWpzE7twq6qsZ2jAW9VJCT3sZdjK-vL7_25XlDh69p4smzfMBmn0E9yI5GbFNFtX5nswWkN2LTBbaTfjusJc562DvDDLBshHpcw2NlwANrfcgkuqlDiN8qzY91l8S/s320/Sandalore+Product+Image.png" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandalore is a perfume ingredient not a medecine</td></tr>
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At Pell Wall we sell <a href="https://pellwall.com/product/sandalore/" target="_blank">Sandalore</a> in small quantities and I suspect many buyers may be tempted to experiment on themselves or others with the material: if you’re not familiar with perfumery ingredients you need to know that this isn’t something you should be rubbing on your head (or anywhere else) in pure form. <br />
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All perfumery ingredients need <u>appropriate dilution</u> before they are safe for that kind of use and a typical cosmetic product scented with sandalwood will contain only a very small amount of perfume - perhaps 1% - 5% - and only a small proportion of that would be Sandalore.<br />
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So if you do plan to self-medicate with an ingredient like this, please proceed with caution and be aware that you do so entirely at your own risk: Pell Wall does not sell this or any material as a medicine or for any use other than as an ingredient in a perfume blended and diluted by a competent person.Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-26428675262142863512016-06-11T12:43:00.001-07:002016-08-01T12:12:55.916-07:00The Old ManIt’s been a while since I posted and I thought it was high time I did. As this weekend is <b>World Gin Day</b> and, is a week before, <b>Father’s Day</b>; it seemed right to create a cocktail using gin and call it <b><i>The Old Man</i></b>. So I did.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx1pqPKHvaxtDXVtdT3bl9XipUQwuJst9asgBa3K3s_9wue3Pk6kc-JtR64lAmiVHSSvXKHV3VULZOyzF61cKqgn3nVFdSHk3SuaOLZNc4g1Qt1GOzBiTx-8oeImQSBD_-9hyND7EMcKom/s1600/The+Old+Man+-+a+cocktail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx1pqPKHvaxtDXVtdT3bl9XipUQwuJst9asgBa3K3s_9wue3Pk6kc-JtR64lAmiVHSSvXKHV3VULZOyzF61cKqgn3nVFdSHk3SuaOLZNc4g1Qt1GOzBiTx-8oeImQSBD_-9hyND7EMcKom/s320/The+Old+Man+-+a+cocktail.JPG" width="259" /></a></div>
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I might also subtitle this one <i>A Tale of Two Gins</i> because it requires two very different gins to get the effect. [Writing that reminds me that earlier in the year, around the time the latest 007 movie was released, there was an excellent article entitled <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/oct/29/martini-recipe-classic-perfect" target="_blank">How to Make The Perfect Martini published in the Guardian</a>. I enjoyed the article, but, as a frequent martini drinker and all round gin-fan, I was stunned by the <i>Dog that Didn’t Bark*</i> in this particular article: at no point does the author discuss which gin - and as gin is by far the majority ingredient in any proper martini that seemed like quite an omission to me.]<br />
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Anyway, back to <i>The Old Man</i>:<br />
<ul>
<li>50ml <a href="http://audemus-spirits.com/en/index.html" target="_blank">Audemus</a> Pink Pepper Gin</li>
<li>50ml <a href="http://www.pinkstergin.com/" target="_blank">Pinksters Gin</a></li>
<li>2ml <a href="http://williamschase.co.uk/products/chase-rhubarb-liqueur-20" target="_blank">Chase Elderflower Liqueur</a> </li>
<li>A sprig of fresh elderflowers to garnish</li>
</ul>
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Shake over ice, pour into a frozen cocktail glass and garnish with the fresh elderflower - pink in this case to go with the theme - it comes from the purple leaved cultivar but the ordinary kind will give you the same lovely musky aroma over the drink.</div>
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<b>Drink, enjoy and remember your Dad</b>.<br />
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_____________________________<br />
* <span style="font-family: "arial narrow"; font-size: 8pt;">A reference to the scene in the Sherlock
Holmes story </span><i style="font-family: 'Arial Narrow'; font-size: 8pt;">Silver Blase</i><span style="font-family: "arial narrow"; font-size: 8pt;"> by </span><i style="font-family: 'Arial Narrow'; font-size: 8pt;">Sir Arthur Conan Doyle</i><span style="font-family: "arial narrow"; font-size: 8pt;"> in which this
exchange takes place:</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial narrow"; font-size: 8.0pt;">Gregory (Scotland Yard detective): "Is
there any other point to which you would wish to draw my attention?"<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoFootnoteText">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial narrow"; font-size: 8.0pt;">Holmes: "To the curious incident of the
dog in the night-time."<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial narrow"; font-size: 8.0pt;">Gregory: "The dog did nothing in the
night-time."<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial narrow"; font-size: 8.0pt;">Holmes: "That was the curious
incident."<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial narrow"; font-size: 8.0pt;">In this context, used to indicate something
important for its absence.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--><span style="font-family: "arial narrow"; font-size: xx-small;">.</span><br />
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Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-27948430168063093732016-03-02T12:07:00.000-08:002016-03-04T03:12:51.854-08:00Perfume Making Workshops 30th April 1st May 2016 - London<h2>
Two workshops are planned:</h2>
How to Make Perfume & How to Make Better Perfume:
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<iframe allowtransparency="true" frameborder="0" height="504" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/countdown-widget?eid=22495542774" width="195"></iframe><br />
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Advanced Skills for Perfumers:<br />
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<iframe allowtransparency="true" frameborder="0" height="524" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/countdown-widget?eid=22498007145" width="195"></iframe><br />
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Full details are on the Eventbrite Pages, but if you want to attend both please get in touch with me directly using<span style="background-color: #f9f2f9; color: #60646c; font-family: "expletus sans" , cursive; font-size: 15px;"> </span><span style="color: #96588a; font-family: "expletus sans" , cursive;"><span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 15px; font-weight: 700;"><a href="mailto:enquiry@pellwall-perfumes.com">enquiry@pellwall-perfumes.com</a></span></span> as I can offer a discounted price for both.Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-84864623282202137272016-01-05T11:24:00.000-08:002016-01-05T11:41:38.105-08:00A WondAroma Podcast<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Happy New Year!</h2>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="http://wondaroma.libsyn.com/wondaroma-episode-10-perfumer-chris-bartlett-of-pell-wall-perfumes" target="_blank">Episode 10 of the WondAroma podcast</a> features the Pell Wall perfumer Chris Bartlett talking to Christine Daley of <a href="http://perfumersupplyhouse.com/" target="_blank">Perfumer Supply House</a> about:</span><br />
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">how </span><a href="https://pellwall.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;" target="_blank">Pell Wall</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> came about</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the process of composing a fragrance and </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">a handful of interesting ingredients including </span><a href="https://pellwall.com/product/geosmin-1/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;" target="_blank">Geosmin</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">, </span><a href="https://pellwall.com/product/green-tea-givco/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;" target="_blank">Green Tea Givco</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">, </span><a href="https://pellwall.com/product/skatole-1/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;" target="_blank">Skatole</a>, <span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="https://pellwall.com/product/theaspirane-10/" target="_blank">Theaspirane</a></span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> and </span><a href="https://pellwall.com/product/zenolide/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;" target="_blank">Zenolide</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">.</span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The audio quality starts off rather poor but gets markedly better from about 14 minutes in and continues to improve throughout.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiofKSIsjgn2pRLocuVhbwYo1RBV8kkm61eEqsqg8vQKq-sljbs4S96zdVad0pPQnw_xIgzie8lm5EmmWpkjufpsxxsGjW99N2Kt7iB3BwYsR64RqtloFwLB3sqfWdFsZ81kfQIMuDinWJp/s1600/Chris+Bartlett+in+the+Pell+Wall+Perfumery.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiofKSIsjgn2pRLocuVhbwYo1RBV8kkm61eEqsqg8vQKq-sljbs4S96zdVad0pPQnw_xIgzie8lm5EmmWpkjufpsxxsGjW99N2Kt7iB3BwYsR64RqtloFwLB3sqfWdFsZ81kfQIMuDinWJp/s320/Chris+Bartlett+in+the+Pell+Wall+Perfumery.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" height="25" scrolling="no" src="//html5-player.libsyn.com/embed/episode/id/4055967/height/25/width/820/theme/standard-mini/autoplay/no/autonext/no/thumbnail/no/preload/no/no_addthis/no/direction/backward/no-cache/true/" style="border: none;" width="““820"></iframe>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here are some other links to things we talk about that you might find handy:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<div style="color: #303030; padding: 0px 0px 1.6em;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.bsp.org.uk/-" style="color: #467aa7; font-weight: bold; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none;">http://www.bsp.org.uk/-</a> The British Society of Perfumers</span></div>
<div style="color: #303030; padding: 0px 0px 1.6em;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.perfumers.org/" style="color: #467aa7; font-weight: bold; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none;">http://www.perfumers.org/</a> - American Society of Perfumers</span></div>
<div style="color: #303030; padding: 0px 0px 1.6em;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Perfect-Scent-Perfume-Industry/dp/0312425775" style="color: #467aa7; font-weight: bold; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none;">http://www.amazon.com/The-Perfect-Scent-Perfume-Industry/dp/0312425775</a> - Chandler Burr's book about Jean Claude Ellena (perfumer at Hermes)</span></div>
</div>
Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-41389952058236324052015-10-05T09:08:00.000-07:002015-10-05T09:09:12.698-07:00Anjin Reviews<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://pellwall.com/product/anjin/"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4g_Em5g6YdEZHI9W5M0OxMqJHb72IgzMSV-DZRDHNQoUjYump8CMOAJ98K8Rgyf1KXu3MFP3oVshmEr4pjo3wr8ZIevOyNfs6F9b5Dn0QVtTvTWDB1E9OuXTxmmbxI3JTyU4G2WEr8Dlx/s320/ANJIN+100ml.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://pellwall.com/product/anjin/">Anjin by Pell Wall</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I’ve been a subscriber to <a href="http://lemouchoirparfume.blogspot.co.uk/">Le Mouchoir Parfumé</a> for some time: the incisive, informed and most importantly short, reviews are just my cup of tea. They are by no means always positive and don’t pull any punches however, so it was with a certain amount of trepidation that I opened the email that popped into my inbox on Sunday morning <a href="http://lemouchoirparfume.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/anjin-review.html">titled Anjin Review</a>: have a look for yourself though and you’ll see why finished up smiling.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">An <a href="http://iscentyouaday.com/2015/05/04/pell-wall-perfumes-anjin-turn-up-the-heat/">earlier review from another blogger I enjoy, I Scent You a Day</a>, made me smile too and it’s fascinating to see how differently the two reviewers reacted to the same fragrance - both finding things in it that I hadn’t considered myself.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Many thanks to both reviewers for their thoughts and the smiles :-)</span>Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-24357561104732093762015-04-15T11:35:00.000-07:002015-04-15T11:35:46.071-07:00Vanilla: the universal ingredient<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj55qwaiUk9eFfokaJiDt_hc56SaydYkmrcxRbqD1evAcQZ4RW8hlBHplxUibufeAYreRH8qmj3SBoxuc2Qs6H441pvcD-iiSuvzRUdSGX4lAz0COx3LzMcIwM-5ofnzmAFoDEoscBXZdTG/s1600/Vanilla-cognac-in-prosecco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj55qwaiUk9eFfokaJiDt_hc56SaydYkmrcxRbqD1evAcQZ4RW8hlBHplxUibufeAYreRH8qmj3SBoxuc2Qs6H441pvcD-iiSuvzRUdSGX4lAz0COx3LzMcIwM-5ofnzmAFoDEoscBXZdTG/s1600/Vanilla-cognac-in-prosecco.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prosecco upgraded with Vanilla Cognac<br />Pell Wall style</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Vanilla is one of the most useful ingredients in cooking, cocktails and perfumery. Its story is quite well known, so I’m only going to touch on some of the less well-known aspects here. My main purpose is to give details of a fine drink and a tincture that are easy to make at home.<br />
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So, first up, the drink: once upon a time, when I had more money and less sense I conducted a research project into the <a href="http://www.iba-world.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=88&Itemid=532" target="_blank"><b><i>Champagne Cocktail</i></b> </a>- a hedonist’s research project rather than an academic one - I tried variations on the Champagne cocktail in every bar I could find that served one to try out the differences. Much was learned and more was drunk ... including me from time to time.<br />
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Vanilla Cognac</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQFJ6XLgTzWWI8T1KDdgRXL7oAxxPe_ZL_Q7ezL9Cv_1QwKuXvi7uiFzyQsTrwftmGBZEGj7wx_cDLOJ52wjQfvWRtDCPHvazSvh58E6yuzdm-1PuJQewAXD8J7WhenNKQ4Icyp1g_HygJ/s1600/Vanilla+Cognac+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQFJ6XLgTzWWI8T1KDdgRXL7oAxxPe_ZL_Q7ezL9Cv_1QwKuXvi7uiFzyQsTrwftmGBZEGj7wx_cDLOJ52wjQfvWRtDCPHvazSvh58E6yuzdm-1PuJQewAXD8J7WhenNKQ4Icyp1g_HygJ/s1600/Vanilla+Cognac+1.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Filtering the cognac<br />(while drinking coffee)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the things I discovered was a variation called the Vanilla Classic - sadly now both the bar where I found it and the key ingredient are gone. That ingredient was <a href="http://cocktails.about.com/od/liqueurscordials/p/navan_liqueur.htm" target="_blank">Navan</a> - a fantastic vanilla Cognac made by the same people who produce Grand Marnier.<br />
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So why am I telling you about a drink you can’t buy? Well, it inspired me to have a go at my own and I’d like to share the process with you:<br />
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<div style="font-family: Helvetica;">
Take one bottle of good (XO ideally) supermarket cognac and put in two pods of Ugandan Vanilla - leave it where you'll remember to shake it now and then for about four months. Take out the pods, filter the cognac but reserve the pods (you’ll see why in a bit).</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8r9qqY3r2qnScm0nTe2qi_qQyGKduEJzdZuC54Qemm7O7nuj_3g6IWJ2PdV-MiKppwGCvAZJJAcKeg8cfb9iEsjQehyphenhyphend_PIKBGhvBNhb6Q5E8l6lfFIpuRrsGkRG5NNbv9kymH5wggZoH/s1600/Vanilla+Cognac+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8r9qqY3r2qnScm0nTe2qi_qQyGKduEJzdZuC54Qemm7O7nuj_3g6IWJ2PdV-MiKppwGCvAZJJAcKeg8cfb9iEsjQehyphenhyphend_PIKBGhvBNhb6Q5E8l6lfFIpuRrsGkRG5NNbv9kymH5wggZoH/s1600/Vanilla+Cognac+3.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost done</td></tr>
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<div style="font-family: Helvetica;">
Your Cognac should now be a beautiful mahogany colour and filled with complex vanilla flavours as well as all the richness of the fine brandy itself. You can drink it just as it is, add sugar to make something that more closely resembles Navan but I think it works fantastically used to upgrade a glass of Prosecco - which has enough sweetness of its own to sustain the extra alcohol - drink and enjoy!</div>
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Vanilla Tincture</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zRrsLgU0JiY0BXCGRdVDqP8U-BQetFajtKIsNA8wwAhdbaX0fM1T44ZcVlRBdL7YGDeDbuvaFm2ds6pbOY2FzX8cu_iyEvC_mv1wsX6EKp6e-_FuUoR3JTXSbP48rskHTyMktNlSOrsi/s1600/Vanilla+Cognac+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zRrsLgU0JiY0BXCGRdVDqP8U-BQetFajtKIsNA8wwAhdbaX0fM1T44ZcVlRBdL7YGDeDbuvaFm2ds6pbOY2FzX8cu_iyEvC_mv1wsX6EKp6e-_FuUoR3JTXSbP48rskHTyMktNlSOrsi/s1600/Vanilla+Cognac+2.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don’t waste the beans after you’ve<br />made the vanilla cognac</td></tr>
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Now back to those pods: it seems a shame to let them go to waste and one of the lesser-known facts about vanilla is that in perfumery the absolute (see <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/natural-perfume-materials-what-terms.html" target="_blank">this post for a definition of absolutes and other extracts</a>) is normally used but it isn’t easy to work with, so for the small-scale perfumer a tincture is an alternative.</div>
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Here’s my technique for a tincture that’s a bit out of the ordinary:</div>
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Let the pods from your cognac-making dry out then chop them up, along with another fresh pod or two, weigh them all together and put the whole lot into nine times the weight of perfumers alcohol (so as to create a 10% Tincture), adding a shot or two of the cognac to the blend (I used about 50g). Just as with the cognac, wait for at least four months shaking whenever you think of it but at least every few days.</div>
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Result: vanilla cognac you can drink plus a vanilla tincture that you can use in perfume making at about 7 times the quantity you would the pure absolute. The cognac in the tincture gives it an extra complexity and also encourages more flavour out of the pods due to the water content - unlike many materials vanilla tinctures better in a lower strength alcohol </div>
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Resist the temptation to drink the tincture though ...</div>
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Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-58642352832030871592015-03-14T09:16:00.000-07:002019-06-11T09:56:40.841-07:00Tolu BalsamTolu Balsam is a very useful natural fixative as well as a lovely base-note in its own right, but it isn’t the easiest of materials to handle. It comes from the South American tree <span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";"><i>Myroxylon balsamum. </i> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";">It is used to fix materials such as juniper, petitgrain, spices and florals of many kinds and frequently forms a key component of oriental and chypre styles of perfume.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; font-style: italic; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcILlrvu8DsFQW5dd4uLNnAEW-RDRUWzkhyphenhypheni1kudkWEheZEQ9CxKx1eF7dnnxtUNGnIKAdqSzXhoDn7nG7DBU3mQ5bFApW7V7kjY_nNpt2MFygfkhFkAEYlUDLTsIKbANykD2lTeClTQz/s1600/Solid+Tolu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcILlrvu8DsFQW5dd4uLNnAEW-RDRUWzkhyphenhypheni1kudkWEheZEQ9CxKx1eF7dnnxtUNGnIKAdqSzXhoDn7nG7DBU3mQ5bFApW7V7kjY_nNpt2MFygfkhFkAEYlUDLTsIKbANykD2lTeClTQz/s1600/Solid+Tolu.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock-likc pure Tolu Balsam</td></tr>
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<b>Arctander</b> describes it as: "<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";"><i>a brown, orange-brown or dark
yellowish brown mass, brittle when cold, and
the fracture is glasslike or flintlike. Its odor is
sweet-balsamic, cinnamic in type, faintly floral and with an undertone of vanillin.</i>” and at normal UK temperatures it’s certainly rock-hard and behaves rather like a chunk of Brighton Rock when it’s broken.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ_6Iko2RSMnDflB56oTXUJcxw3JP1JoCZs6Ri0fINXXSPiYIll2YFGidTLLnDaavUswUDboyZS_Lw4d7_zIwgbeoRJo_f7wG2RLkxcC-OLQyU1Nsqz3SURWDblKt5wV9vvsIsH9zFWPaw/s1600/Tolu+Camera+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ_6Iko2RSMnDflB56oTXUJcxw3JP1JoCZs6Ri0fINXXSPiYIll2YFGidTLLnDaavUswUDboyZS_Lw4d7_zIwgbeoRJo_f7wG2RLkxcC-OLQyU1Nsqz3SURWDblKt5wV9vvsIsH9zFWPaw/s1600/Tolu+Camera+03.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tolu and TEC form a strange, alien landscape</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";">So to make it practical to handle it needs to be diluted in a suitable solvent - it’s often sold already diluted in this way though the dilution isn’t always declared nor the solvent named - I bought a pure Kg recently and diluted it ready for use in TEC (tri-ethyl citrate) in a process that turned out to be both quite involved and to produce some fun images, so I thought I’d write it up here.</span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY7IeWwugF98uwr6FcZa9pgKw8B9wFzENURPo4bzsbxS7dzs9fGwQ8AxKLHLKxDS5cOfIxKilKDZHNoqgLqf79YCHtW5sOfRTZqBIPEswQj5k7YrhnMFhvsROs8yVaocHg2eFRLVWzy8Sa/s1600/Tolu+Camera+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY7IeWwugF98uwr6FcZa9pgKw8B9wFzENURPo4bzsbxS7dzs9fGwQ8AxKLHLKxDS5cOfIxKilKDZHNoqgLqf79YCHtW5sOfRTZqBIPEswQj5k7YrhnMFhvsROs8yVaocHg2eFRLVWzy8Sa/s1600/Tolu+Camera+01.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is that a creature emerging?</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";">The first job was to get the Kg of rock-like Tolu Balsam soft enough to pour out of its container, which I did by sitting the container in a bain-marie and boiling the water beneath it: this took a few hours before the material was fully liquid. Meanwhile a pre-weighed out amount of TEC was heated on my heater-stirrer with a stirring bar already in the bottom of it (if you don’t heat the solvent as well the tolu will go hard again as soon as it hits the cool liquid and takes much longer to go into solution).</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";">The next step is to pour the hot, liquid tolu into the pre-warmed solvent (insulated gloves are called for for this step of course). At this point we realised that there was a photo opportunity as the resulting non-yet-mixture looked like an alien landscape. The tolu settled to the bottom of the solvent and the application of glass rods was necessary to get it to start dissolving as it was much too sticky for the <a href="https://pellwall.com/shop/accessories-for-perfumery/automatic-stirrer/" target="_blank">automatic stirrer</a> at that stage: as those went in it started to look like one of those scenes from the Alien series where the creatures start unfolding from the cave walls . . .</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNL78p4qW4KwWuEBwkCULmRaYvXg9yz5HcmajFr753-aitHSJdiBU5aQE7UA422_srBhHmKpu-I7moQoVuGLcFnSiKEHvcayol4JZ7Av0Q5YRMccYsoVTWdDj9TUaEaRMcRd4k2-0BuAD3/s1600/Tolu+Camera+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNL78p4qW4KwWuEBwkCULmRaYvXg9yz5HcmajFr753-aitHSJdiBU5aQE7UA422_srBhHmKpu-I7moQoVuGLcFnSiKEHvcayol4JZ7Av0Q5YRMccYsoVTWdDj9TUaEaRMcRd4k2-0BuAD3/s1600/Tolu+Camera+02.jpg" width="200" /> </a> This is all being done in a three litre glass beaker and as you can see in the later pictures the manual stirring took some time before we could leave the <a href="https://pellwall.com/shop/accessories-for-perfumery/automatic-stirrer/" target="_blank">automatic stirrer</a> to get on with the job on its own and the balsam tended to dry on the glass very quickly too.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";">The cling film you can see was to minimise loss of aromatic quality as this was all being done hot, although with such a high-boiling material and high-boiling solvent that isn’t a big concern.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-I3n6D21HO4qpa-Dp059Umj2_SpfemK8qCj-wKmAXo6MbEY1xjlnxaX_XNdV3ipQs7x8juvxvDJcpDACU1mzWmWgcTZDjtc9SBZXslNfwU2PP6NEsTqBhwlTXwa0CM5tx4vz_Fqn6FubN/s1600/IMG_3478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-I3n6D21HO4qpa-Dp059Umj2_SpfemK8qCj-wKmAXo6MbEY1xjlnxaX_XNdV3ipQs7x8juvxvDJcpDACU1mzWmWgcTZDjtc9SBZXslNfwU2PP6NEsTqBhwlTXwa0CM5tx4vz_Fqn6FubN/s1600/IMG_3478.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A stirring start</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH3JIbcdf5x_92EjFV1GhNfi085yRss_L1ZY5o8T-2BBPxJEoHUzo77uDfc7GTBnyYamSGRSTFerUwDwqqFoL_x_YUktSYQmLtwXK7LMDF_op05sEncGuHusJ7E9HBMk-Uxiogogt3Nj_e/s1600/IMG_3486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH3JIbcdf5x_92EjFV1GhNfi085yRss_L1ZY5o8T-2BBPxJEoHUzo77uDfc7GTBnyYamSGRSTFerUwDwqqFoL_x_YUktSYQmLtwXK7LMDF_op05sEncGuHusJ7E9HBMk-Uxiogogt3Nj_e/s1600/IMG_3486.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gloopy-looking stuff</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26tZjiHX-zyEglE_kVCVRGI-XkerAz_NIgPplnIrS1Kcerv61EXkvR6lhF5w6h8utjHYwjfIFtyn2ICso1UYjjX_YaH4V05jcY-2RpKFs5b89hhq7QOC9XZbsbj-cqscCvMnCavC3QcT6/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26tZjiHX-zyEglE_kVCVRGI-XkerAz_NIgPplnIrS1Kcerv61EXkvR6lhF5w6h8utjHYwjfIFtyn2ICso1UYjjX_YaH4V05jcY-2RpKFs5b89hhq7QOC9XZbsbj-cqscCvMnCavC3QcT6/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pasta possibly?</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";">Eventually it reached the stage where it was liquid enough for the <a href="https://pellwall.com/shop/accessories-for-perfumery/automatic-stirrer/" target="_blank">automatic stirrer</a> to do its stuff and with the stirrer on a low setting it was left overnight to complete the mixing, kept at a constant 60 degrees centigrade by the integral heater. By morning it was fully mixed to form a dark brown, consistent, mobile liquid and here you can see me concentrating hard as I pour it into a (slightly pre-warmed) 3Kg glass reagent bottle. The bottle is on the scale so that I can check the amount that’s gone into it for stock control purposes.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirV4veWnY5y7S0clk-NYOjHjXRZgyEgpqWb26P0a73RcaMNhBT3b_hjYBPEpxxXu5ChrpvXRddiBwR41JPLAaLxCIRNTcIsodWhZJdr5K_K9brxF1dFr41okKFtPiAWTMKg1SYcdjhndun/s1600/IMG_3493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirV4veWnY5y7S0clk-NYOjHjXRZgyEgpqWb26P0a73RcaMNhBT3b_hjYBPEpxxXu5ChrpvXRddiBwR41JPLAaLxCIRNTcIsodWhZJdr5K_K9brxF1dFr41okKFtPiAWTMKg1SYcdjhndun/s1600/IMG_3493.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Perfect for Perfume: Tolu Balsam at 30% in TEC</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";">We even captured a little video of that part of the process, which gives you a clear idea of the consistency once it’s finished:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "newcenturyschlbk";">A few chips and flakes were left over from the mixing process and these were put into a plastic jar - the picture at the top of this post is of those, a few weeks later by which time they have merged together to form a single solid but uneven lump, much like that with which the whole process started.</span></div>
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Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-29579913234995540782015-03-12T12:35:00.003-07:002015-09-22T02:00:15.233-07:00Special Offer Ingredients<h2>
Clearance Bargain Ingredients - only one of each!</h2>
From time to time people order perfumery ingredients from me and, either because they say they are in a hurry or just because I’m trying to keep ahead of things, I make up the order before they pay . . . then sometimes they don’t pay, either because they changed their minds, ran out of money or perhaps because it was just a wind-up or a fantasy... <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXNf0Dav2zu4dpm1Qb8ST2_mXPROTDVkCa6aP2GV7ZAObc3tOR0DXISgjtJjjVb7gRT4F-OjnuaAQElKwOKCZ4nNC1MY8DIpXCRB9jLmVCSe04SUbDbjf0D2xZyxew07BI3QszTkhM8rPj/s1600/perfumiers49587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXNf0Dav2zu4dpm1Qb8ST2_mXPROTDVkCa6aP2GV7ZAObc3tOR0DXISgjtJjjVb7gRT4F-OjnuaAQElKwOKCZ4nNC1MY8DIpXCRB9jLmVCSe04SUbDbjf0D2xZyxew07BI3QszTkhM8rPj/s1600/perfumiers49587.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me in declamation mode ;-)</td></tr>
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Whatever the case I put the material aside to include in a future order but one way and another the storage shelf has become rather cluttered with these orphans, so I’ve decided it’s time to shift them, so here’s your chance to snag yourself a serious <b>bargain</b>:<br />
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<ul>
<li><strike>Azarbre, 10ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Azarbre, 25ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Camphene at 50% in IPM, 100ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike><span style="color: #38761d;">Cedarwood Atlas Supra,</span> 100ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Dihydro Ionone Beta, 10ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Fixateur 505E, 100ml,</strike> <b>sold</b></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fixateur 505E, 100ml, £99</b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b></span><b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">*New*</span></b></li>
<li><strike>Geosmin at 1% in DPG, 100ml, </strike><b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Hedione (original Firmenich), 1Kg</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Hexalon / Tropical Ionone, 10ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Hydrocinnamaldehyde, 25ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Ionone alpha, 100ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Iso E Super, 200ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li>Iso E Super, 100ml, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Methyl Diantilis,</strike> <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Musk Ketone at 10% in BB/ethanol, 1Kg</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Myrcene, 5ml, <b>free</b> with anything else</strike></li>
<li><strike>Nectarate, 100ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Nutty Pyrazine, at 0.1% in IPM, 4ml, <b>free</b> with anything else</strike></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Olibanum Resinoid (Frankincense resin) 30% in TEC, 500g £35 </b></span><b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">*New*</span></b></li>
<li><strike>Orris Givco 204, 500g</strike><b><b> sold</b> </b></li>
<li><strike>Rose Givco 217, 25ml,</strike><b> </b><b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike><span style="color: #38761d;">Rose Otto Persian</span>, 30ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Rum Acetal at 50% in DPG, 25ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Traseolide, 500g £29 </b></span><b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">*New*</span></b></li>
<li><strike>Veramoss/Evernyl, 30g</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
<li><strike>Zenolide, 100ml</strike>, <b>sold</b></li>
</ul>
<br />
Note that in each case what’s on offer is the specific size indicated: if you wanted another size they are all on the list (except <i>Rum Acetal </i>which I no-longer stock), but then you don’t get the benefit of the special clearance price. <i>Note 13/3/15: Just added Musk Ketone, pre-dissolved in benzyl benzoate and ethanol - a real bargain as it’s notoriously hard to get into solution - and another one I no-longer stock having changed over to IFF’s Musk Ketone Replacer.</i><br />
<br />
<b>UK Shipping</b> on these is, as usual for ingredient sales, at the flat rate of <b>£9.50</b> however many or few you buy. If you’re anywhere else in the world, I’ll have to quote. <br />
<br />
If you want to combine these with an order from the <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.com/articles/" target="_blank">main lists</a> that’s absolutely fine, but pay for these first or you might miss them while you’re browsing through the 300 other materials on offer!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4VohC8hk73op8pJF5RQXTlvvPr9UC9OSMTY6hMgM8zbQn0kLWgvgQuA6M5GpvqTjxAHVzKKdttFUeWLoLxCKVJIqb7z81TWs4oNIggsc7oryrjFf8RLV3z8VGQoxcZx3RBAe2WKmZDDP/s1600/dahliaback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="95" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4VohC8hk73op8pJF5RQXTlvvPr9UC9OSMTY6hMgM8zbQn0kLWgvgQuA6M5GpvqTjxAHVzKKdttFUeWLoLxCKVJIqb7z81TWs4oNIggsc7oryrjFf8RLV3z8VGQoxcZx3RBAe2WKmZDDP/s1600/dahliaback.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
Payments by PayPal or fast Bank Transfer please to secure them: Send an email to <a href="mailto:enquiry@pellwall-perfumes.com">enquiry@pellwall-perfumes.com</a> saying what you want and where you are. I’ll process those in the order they arrive.<br />
<br />
<b>Order quickly to avoid disappointment!</b>Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-52391137962321205092015-03-10T13:29:00.000-07:002015-03-11T03:29:22.662-07:00Perfumery Ingredients at Pell Wall<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqRtRRosZFd1sey-SOlKL1_-lL5ZpaMzalLcKLV-6D2NpmOgR2s34VLRwJ1dMDQJ5wCxnxY2OOpuhvdLrzypS55sXokFW5J94kCBXOEHiF82XhBqDa975OShjMDCZo6xp3QeMQMVtjKgB/s1600/Bottles+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqRtRRosZFd1sey-SOlKL1_-lL5ZpaMzalLcKLV-6D2NpmOgR2s34VLRwJ1dMDQJ5wCxnxY2OOpuhvdLrzypS55sXokFW5J94kCBXOEHiF82XhBqDa975OShjMDCZo6xp3QeMQMVtjKgB/s1600/Bottles+02.jpg" height="200" width="190" /></a>The March issue of my <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.com/articles" target="_blank">Ingredients List</a> is now online and the list now features some 300 materials, both natural and synthetic, with some very exciting new additions and a spectacular price reduction on one material thanks to some help from a friend in the US.<br />
<br />
There are two versions of the list on the website and both can be downloaded or printed for easier reading as well as browsed directly on the site itself. The first features descriptions of the odours and uses of the materials both from their manufacturers and from me. I’m expanding this aspect all the time and there are new write-ups included since the last release in January.<br />
<br />
<object data="http://www.pellwall-perfumes.com/resources/ingredients.pdf" height="750" type="application/pdf" width="“400">
alt : <a href="http://www.pellwall-perfumes.com/resources/ingredients.pdf">Ingredients for sale pdf</a>
</object> <br />
<br />
But if you just want to compare prices with other ingredient suppliers you’ll appreciate the second list more - it’s just product names, CAS numbers and prices presented in tabular form:<br />
<br />
<br />
<object data="http://www.pellwall-perfumes.com/resources/ingredients-prices.pdf" height="750" type="application/pdf" width="“400">
alt : <a href="http://www.pellwall-perfumes.com/resources/ingredients.pdf">Price List for Ingredients</a>
</object><br />
<br />
Among the new additions you’ll find several new naturals such as <b><i>labdanum absolute</i></b>, <i><b>orange flower absolute</b></i> and <b><i>violet leaf absolute</i></b> - all among my favourite ingredients to use, though not cheap I’m afraid.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmDneVog1OTKlkoWhCEnh8pymoi2CObNhEjKhEHOi1i_PQYbVDZ_sAKcLq2sPEHSpp2XhuJFyZH2AIU0wMOczgGz345gqlSpY1mKlhtijmcSNwSTE-nXQpwITU9XJbGUyXbOH0TD_K0YN-/s1600/Sweet_violet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmDneVog1OTKlkoWhCEnh8pymoi2CObNhEjKhEHOi1i_PQYbVDZ_sAKcLq2sPEHSpp2XhuJFyZH2AIU0wMOczgGz345gqlSpY1mKlhtijmcSNwSTE-nXQpwITU9XJbGUyXbOH0TD_K0YN-/s1600/Sweet_violet.jpg" height="190" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
Speaking of cheap, that big reduction is for <i><b>Centifolether</b></i> - down from £52 for 100ml to just £22. Also very good value is a new musk I’m offering for the first time that you don’t see about much called <b><i>Zenolide</i></b>: it’s a great material, as good as some of it’s better known brothers yet almost as cheap as Ethylene Brassylate so you can use it freely. £17 for 100ml.<br />
<br />
But if you want to find out what all the other new things are, you’ll just have to take a look at the lists :-)<br />
<br />
<br />Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-17271056868294856362015-01-10T11:41:00.002-08:002015-05-10T09:53:30.260-07:00The Quinolines<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I thought it might be useful to do another in my occasional series of <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Disambiguation" target="_blank">disambiguation</a> posts about perfumery ingredients with easily confused names or equivalences. This time I’m looking at a group of similar ingredients used to create an earthy, leather note in fragrances:</span><br />
<b style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></b>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3qvZhWnxxHEzvRHs999hove2joUFC38qtHj5k5UBBrthvX30tKAqew0RMHVFiMKa2OchMh8YvGQm65nCOYkvJY7D3smHXzh1C9LkGcjn5k_PvKJTN0UbX8QaZg2z7K6SiP7k9OBbpaQS/s1600/Sticky-Leather-Sky-by-Pell-Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3qvZhWnxxHEzvRHs999hove2joUFC38qtHj5k5UBBrthvX30tKAqew0RMHVFiMKa2OchMh8YvGQm65nCOYkvJY7D3smHXzh1C9LkGcjn5k_PvKJTN0UbX8QaZg2z7K6SiP7k9OBbpaQS/s1600/Sticky-Leather-Sky-by-Pell-Wall.jpg" width="97" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No quinolines in<br />
Sticky Leather Sky</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b style="color: #333333;">Isobutyl quinoline</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> (CAS number 65442-31-1), of which there are several versions on the market all using that name and a version made by Givaudan called </span><i style="color: #333333;"><a href="http://eindex.givaudan.com/eindex/displayMolecule.xhtml" rel="nofollow" sl-processed="1" style="color: #417394; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Pyralone</a></i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> and one made by Symrise called </span><i style="color: #333333;"><a href="http://products.symrise.com/aroma-molecules/product-search/isobutyl-quinoline-54/" rel="nofollow" sl-processed="1" style="color: #417394; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Isobutyl quinoline 54</a></i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">.</span><br style="color: #333333;" /><br style="color: #333333;" /><b style="color: #333333;"><a href="http://eindex.givaudan.com/eindex/displayMolecule.xhtml" rel="nofollow" sl-processed="1" style="color: #417394; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Butyl quinoline secondary</a></b><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> - another Givaudan product name - designates a mixture of two isomers: CAS numbers 65442-31-1 and 67634-06-4, the second of which is <i>8-tert-butyl quinoline</i>, which is not present in <i>Pyralone</i>.</span><br style="color: #333333;" /><br style="color: #333333;" /><b style="color: #333333;"><a href="http://products.symrise.com/aroma-molecules/product-search/isobutyl-quinoline/" rel="nofollow" sl-processed="1" style="color: #417394; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Isobutyl quinoline</a></b><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> (CAS number 68198-80-1) is another material produced by Symrise under the same name and, despite the name, is not equivalent with <b><i>either</i></b> of the Givaudan products.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Just as a matter of curiosity, I didn’t use any of the above materials to create the leather notes in <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.com/leather/" target="_blank">Sticky Leather Sky</a>: there are lots of alternative means of creating such notes, but that’s for another post.</span></span>Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-32676229853185636582014-12-30T08:27:00.000-08:002014-12-31T07:07:16.584-08:00Pell Wall: Best Discovery of 2014<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiioYPZWAlAhS68y9dQIPlZ2KSMU5YsyDNEUIvKrNTx0X_ZVx7TUhIfYBahGOMyfXe5oT3PHPjRlIbjDR67w9HzHU7bynxIaETJp8kw6MAY1QxrZcPrVxqIbDHGUqQbFQsMSC-pQGtBkgt1/s1600/Pretty-in-Pink-by-Pell-Wall-presentation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiioYPZWAlAhS68y9dQIPlZ2KSMU5YsyDNEUIvKrNTx0X_ZVx7TUhIfYBahGOMyfXe5oT3PHPjRlIbjDR67w9HzHU7bynxIaETJp8kw6MAY1QxrZcPrVxqIbDHGUqQbFQsMSC-pQGtBkgt1/s1600/Pretty-in-Pink-by-Pell-Wall-presentation.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.com/pink/" target="_blank">Pretty in Pink</a> by Pell Wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">As 2014 races to the finish line</span>, I’m pleased to report that Pell Wall has featured as the <a href="http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.co.uk/2014/12/best-perfumes-of-2014-and-some-thoughts.html" target="_blank">Best Discovery of 2014</a> on the much respected <a href="http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Perfume Shrine blog</a> by Elena Vosnaki, who has also just published a <a href="http://www.fragrantica.com/news/Pretty-in-Pink-A-Lucy-Honeychurch-English-Rose-from-Pell-Wall-Perfumes-6224.html" target="_blank">fantastic review of Pretty in Pink</a> on the <a href="http://www.fragrantica.com/" target="_blank">Fragrantica</a> website: not only does she like the perfume, but she writes about it in the most entertaining possible way.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisKg2QWxZyQPUjoQNJBj1Z5YhteOYwnTfGZMcx1p291GCDigCeN2VV7IvHCwNfcAfUX6hbLLX1Fx10nZpyzq6WLhDarRXXMlIO3p9qbvg2Ym74G0sDzLuC5uAWNi0h4LeAGTvAog-2Hg3i/s1600/Beaver-wins-Best-of-2014-Award.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisKg2QWxZyQPUjoQNJBj1Z5YhteOYwnTfGZMcx1p291GCDigCeN2VV7IvHCwNfcAfUX6hbLLX1Fx10nZpyzq6WLhDarRXXMlIO3p9qbvg2Ym74G0sDzLuC5uAWNi0h4LeAGTvAog-2Hg3i/s1600/Beaver-wins-Best-of-2014-Award.jpg" height="160" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beaver from Zoologist<br />Composed by Chris Bartlett</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Speaking of Best Discoveries, <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/">ÇaFleureBon</a> <i>Editor in Chief</i> Michelyn Camen has voted <a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/">Zoologist Perfumes</a> (featuring Beaver, created by the Pell Wall Perfumer) as her best discovery of 2014 in their <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/cafleurebon-best-and-worst-2014-fragrance-awards-best-niche-perfume-house-and-creative-director-draw/#comment-115803">Best of Scent 2014 Awards</a>. And Speaking of Zoologist Perfumes, you can also read <a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/blogs/news/15953280-an-interview-with-chris-bartlett-the-perfumer-of-zoologists-beaver" target="_blank">an interview of Chris Bartlett on their blog</a> and a <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/new-fragrance-review-zoologist-perfumes-beaver-welcome-to-victor-wongs-wild-kingdom-draw/" target="_blank">review by Steve Johnson of Beaver</a>, also on </span><a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">ÇaFleureBon</a><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> in which we are reported to have achieved the impossible (an animalic scent he can wear without cringing).</span><br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Better still Beaver was awarded a <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/best-perfumes-of-2014-part-3-cafleurebon-fragrance-editors-and-contributors-draw/" target="_blank">Best Scent of 2014 award</a> on the very last day of the year!</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">
</span><br />
<div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So, all-in-all not a bad end to 2014. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">My sincere thanks go to the reviewers and publishers responsible for these and my best wishes to everyone reading for a wonderful New Year and a happy and prosperous 2015.</span></div>
Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-76349902069957088282014-12-12T04:51:00.000-08:002015-01-13T07:57:01.834-08:00Workshops - February 7th and 8th 2015 - London<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Following on from my <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/perfume-making-workshops-for-2015.html" target="_blank">post last month</a>, I’m now able to confirm dates and location for the workshops.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">There are two workshops Introductory and Advanced - there are still places on the Introductory but <b><i>only one place left</i></b> on the Advanced:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIm-r_o2QHZRoYMtjuHV3EGiM30elF8jjrP-4xEgHh7FqcsPS909dyYYzk_Wbh-SBOuDXZt94CsJ_aEEmdoEQePMcG4e9WDE3An2P8XmYK8b1IsmFFj-IBCrKE8SEkHXfMyNcelBjXZD2g/s1600/Pell-Wall-Workshop-Ingredients.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIm-r_o2QHZRoYMtjuHV3EGiM30elF8jjrP-4xEgHh7FqcsPS909dyYYzk_Wbh-SBOuDXZt94CsJ_aEEmdoEQePMcG4e9WDE3An2P8XmYK8b1IsmFFj-IBCrKE8SEkHXfMyNcelBjXZD2g/s1600/Pell-Wall-Workshop-Ingredients.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some ingredients for the Introductory Workshop</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">On <b>Saturday 7th February</b> I’ll be holding a r<a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/perfume-making-workshop-in-london.html" target="_blank">epeat of the <b>workshop</b> last held in May 2014</a>, which takes you from an introduction to the materials right through to making a bottle of your own perfume that you’ve designed yourself in the course of the day. This workshop is suitable for people who have never made perfumes of any kind before but as there is a lot of practical work and individual tuition it is also suitable for those with some prior blending experience. Arrival from <b>10am</b>, starting promptly at 10.30 and concluding at 5.30.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehQDZc4hcB9tjYoSJZc2Z3O5ZRa9dZh2s5gZCouTKpKoUxwkr16b4pH2WDJSrUVELTdjxxqswrSVrudB455UqJggtiRJKCb_E78rteNf0fqZUM1-iNM13UsavM86DYJapgM1f-idTt9wl/s1600/Pell-Wall-Workshop-Folder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehQDZc4hcB9tjYoSJZc2Z3O5ZRa9dZh2s5gZCouTKpKoUxwkr16b4pH2WDJSrUVELTdjxxqswrSVrudB455UqJggtiRJKCb_E78rteNf0fqZUM1-iNM13UsavM86DYJapgM1f-idTt9wl/s1600/Pell-Wall-Workshop-Folder.jpg" height="237" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Workshop Folder with integral calculator</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px;">The price is </span><b style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px;">£155 per person</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px;">, which includes light refreshments on arrival, mid-morning and mid-afternoon, lunch, six hours of tuition and practice, all the materials you need, a bottle of your own fragrance to take home, full documentation and a nice folder to keep all your formulas and notes in.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post" target="_top">
<input name="cmd" type="hidden" value="_s-xclick" />
<input name="hosted_button_id" type="hidden" value="KU7982CFHTYLG" />
<input alt="PayPal – The safer, easier way to pay online." border="0" name="submit" src="https://www.paypalobjects.com/en_US/GB/i/btn/btn_buynowCC_LG.gif" type="image" />
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://www.paypalobjects.com/en_GB/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" /><b><i>Introductory Workshop only £155</i></b>
</form>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">All the catering will be provided by the <a href="http://www.stjamescourthotel.co.uk/meetingsandevents" target="_blank">hotel</a> (see below), which also offers <i>free wifi</i> in case you feel the need to check your email or send a tweet in the breaks.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"><br /></span></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk0RlVsTzbTKmqoSLAuCuPVtv90s2AVCn7fujEgvifa9izjVa0SygyzeZTJMWTCyKkS6_mos6Fh39pNO7mFyRT35wVBlvz3gnna3aB91WWOHN349ta5SIn3IA2p1WrwR4qQo6H1U_1m8ky/s1600/Pell-Wall-Workshop-Ingredients-close-up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk0RlVsTzbTKmqoSLAuCuPVtv90s2AVCn7fujEgvifa9izjVa0SygyzeZTJMWTCyKkS6_mos6Fh39pNO7mFyRT35wVBlvz3gnna3aB91WWOHN349ta5SIn3IA2p1WrwR4qQo6H1U_1m8ky/s1600/Pell-Wall-Workshop-Ingredients-close-up.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">On <b>Sunday 8th February</b> I’ll be holding an <b>Advanced Workshop</b> for those who have done a prior workshop</span></span></span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"> or who otherwise already know all the essential techniques of blending and are familiar with the most common materials. The price for the advanced workshop is <b>£175 per person</b> and in this one we’ll be doing two things:</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">In the first half we will look at a particular group of materials used in perfumery with a view to understanding them better. Delegates will be able to vote their choice from:</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpJy4T4WOnoCe6NjJuYlmSi6wqfvSXfMhAKuvLS8xXUM8WPVFEH7rA-61gpgR9tDBLbwVxbCvZPl7jkggoNbM6G8UXMOtxMv983_TQqW1Uf7iTASHJFDXjO5K3Ayc2nauSe42J3T7xHLu/s1600/Aroma-chemicals+Discovery+Set+by+Pell+Wall+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpJy4T4WOnoCe6NjJuYlmSi6wqfvSXfMhAKuvLS8xXUM8WPVFEH7rA-61gpgR9tDBLbwVxbCvZPl7jkggoNbM6G8UXMOtxMv983_TQqW1Uf7iTASHJFDXjO5K3Ayc2nauSe42J3T7xHLu/s1600/Aroma-chemicals+Discovery+Set+by+Pell+Wall+1.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>
<li><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b>Musks</b> - an exploration of musk ingredients, the differences between them in olfactory terms and how to use each to best effect.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"><b>Ambers</b> - </span></span><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 20px;">an exploration of amber / ambergris ingredients, the differences between them in both olfactory terms and </span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">usage.</span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">Something else suggested by a delegate as long as I know about it in time to prepare materials and gain agreement from the rest of the group.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"><b>Fixatives</b> - </span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 20px;">an exploration of non-musk fixative ingredients, the differences between them in both olfactory terms and </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">usage.</span></span></li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNF6RID4CIHOXW6jsfp-cZ8XGtXMZrICt3tOEGtMTz12JfzFyXO8ZjMD8dZPcGsdyygE6qBd87AUD9rq3hhy3olVFdSDov3Bp9pg1HLlyxoxGAmeOk14vjpDMwNw_2ZnejH3kp4qkET9xt/s1600/Gin-and-Lime-30ml.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNF6RID4CIHOXW6jsfp-cZ8XGtXMZrICt3tOEGtMTz12JfzFyXO8ZjMD8dZPcGsdyygE6qBd87AUD9rq3hhy3olVFdSDov3Bp9pg1HLlyxoxGAmeOk14vjpDMwNw_2ZnejH3kp4qkET9xt/s1600/Gin-and-Lime-30ml.jpg" height="200" width="128" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNF6RID4CIHOXW6jsfp-cZ8XGtXMZrICt3tOEGtMTz12JfzFyXO8ZjMD8dZPcGsdyygE6qBd87AUD9rq3hhy3olVFdSDov3Bp9pg1HLlyxoxGAmeOk14vjpDMwNw_2ZnejH3kp4qkET9xt/s1600/Gin-and-Lime-30ml.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></span></a><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">In the second half everyone will have the opportunity to either bring a blend they are working on that they’d like help improving, continue work on something started in the prior workshop or create something new. I will be on hand to provide guidance throughout and, as the maximum number of people for this workshop is smaller, I’ll be able to spend more time with each person. The full range of materials examined in the morning session will be available for you to practice within the afternoon.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">As before you get to make up a bottle of your creation to keep, but with this one you can choose a 30ml bottle from the Pell Wall range to take home as well.</span></span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://www.paypalobjects.com/en_GB/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" /> <b><i>Advanced Workshop only £175</i></b></form>
<a href="http://www.stjamescourthotel.co.uk/tajSjc/media/images/Homepage%20807x640/taj_SJC_lobby_01_57455526_h.jpg?width=807&height=640&ext=.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.stjamescourthotel.co.uk/tajSjc/media/images/Homepage%20807x640/taj_SJC_lobby_01_57455526_h.jpg?width=807&height=640&ext=.jpg" height="158" width="200" /></a><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Arrival from </span><b style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">10am</b><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">, starting promptly at 10.30 and concluding at 5.30.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">Everything you need is included and the workshop is fully catered by the hotel:</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://www.stjamescourthotel.co.uk/tajSjc/media/images/Landscape%201249x706/taj_SJC_courtyard_03_57510859_l.jpg?width=1249&height=706&ext=.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="http://www.stjamescourthotel.co.uk/tajSjc/media/images/Landscape%201249x706/taj_SJC_courtyard_03_57510859_l.jpg?width=1249&height=706&ext=.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">The location for both workshops is the <b><a href="http://www.stjamescourthotel.co.uk/meetingsandevents" target="_blank">St James’ Court Hotel</a></b> on Buckingham Gate, which as they say in their literature, is a gemstone’s throw from Buckingham Palace.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">Nearest tubes are St James’s Park (2 mins walk), Victoria (8mins walk) and Green Park (12 mins walk through the park and past the palace).</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If you want to book both workshops you can still do so but the discounted rate is now<b> sold out</b> - sorry!</span><br />
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<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F-EXmvoRea6QA%2FVIrXknPqCHI%2FAAAAAAAAAxc%2FEMacT8rM0Jw%2Fs1600%2FGin-and-Lime-30ml.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNF6RID4CIHOXW6jsfp-cZ8XGtXMZrICt3tOEGtMTz12JfzFyXO8ZjMD8dZPcGsdyygE6qBd87AUD9rq3hhy3olVFdSDov3Bp9pg1HLlyxoxGAmeOk14vjpDMwNw_2ZnejH3kp4qkET9xt/s1600/Gin-and-Lime-30ml.jpg" -->Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-79080277581984998692014-12-07T16:08:00.002-08:002015-01-01T08:32:23.694-08:00Zoologist Perfumes, Beaver<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It’s common knowledge in the industry, but not so common elsewhere, that perfumes are frequently composed by perfumers who are not associated with the company that markets them. Commonly those perfumers work for one of the big ingredients houses, perhaps under the guidance of a designer from the brand for which the perfume is being made, perhaps not.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi28Aygn834gkYwpPTnKPT12naLEs0gkLgzbTQRyXZ8IgQd0hxQek7bfuaxbHX59KMzh39hOz770nxsmi52Y0I0Vk91Gv78A5aB-z8KVM4gxE3bQqc_wOJXmTFydTNe26rYirGtqJSJk7TM/s1600/Beaver.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi28Aygn834gkYwpPTnKPT12naLEs0gkLgzbTQRyXZ8IgQd0hxQek7bfuaxbHX59KMzh39hOz770nxsmi52Y0I0Vk91Gv78A5aB-z8KVM4gxE3bQqc_wOJXmTFydTNe26rYirGtqJSJk7TM/s1600/Beaver.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><i>Beaver</i> from Zoologist Perfumes</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I do this kind of work too, and it’s a significant aspect of the business of Pell Wall perfumes. What’s rather unusual is for the house commissioning the work to publicise the perfumer behind it, but that’s exactly what <a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/">Zoologist Perfumes</a> of Canada have decided to do and I’m very proud to be associated with their brand. The brief was a great one to work on, expressed as a single page mood board, it gave enough room for creativity yet made their intentions perfectly clear.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">You can read a great <a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/new-fragrance-review-zoologist-perfumes-beaver-welcome-to-victor-wongs-wild-kingdom-draw/">review of <i>Beaver</i></a>, the fragrance I produced for Zoologist, on the Cafleurbon website where they are also running a competition for samples.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Furthermore you can read an interview with me, where I talk about the work as well as more generally on the <a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/blogs/news/15953280-an-interview-with-chris-bartlett-the-perfumer-of-zoologists-beaver">Zoologist Perfumes Blog</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I can add, without any trace of bias, as it’s an aspect I had no hand in, that the bottles labels and packaging for this line are truly gorgeous.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBz8kvrmiK6hVccGVlcAI5tMJrmq55uEHe9MCwh-h9N7RSALBbhrWH937KlIAtcFtPPxoDEjKn1kUaRoDK2DXTFOE_TjQeHfaoGBKs2ZN-ciEcSB8uFLWyVDsX03nSOzoGAYlpfGSQiyG_/s1600/Beaver-wins-Best-of-2014-Award.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBz8kvrmiK6hVccGVlcAI5tMJrmq55uEHe9MCwh-h9N7RSALBbhrWH937KlIAtcFtPPxoDEjKn1kUaRoDK2DXTFOE_TjQeHfaoGBKs2ZN-ciEcSB8uFLWyVDsX03nSOzoGAYlpfGSQiyG_/s1600/Beaver-wins-Best-of-2014-Award.jpg" height="160" width="320" /></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 20px;">Better still Beaver was awarded a </span><a href="http://www.cafleurebon.com/best-perfumes-of-2014-part-3-cafleurebon-fragrance-editors-and-contributors-draw/" style="color: #4c0077; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Best Scent of 2014 award</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 20px;"> on the very last day of the year!</span><br />
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Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-76272451465869466192014-12-07T09:15:00.001-08:002015-01-13T07:58:57.108-08:00Perfume Making Workshop - Incense - London 31st January 2015<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b><i>Just one place left on this workshop!</i></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">On <b>Saturday 31st January</b> I’m running another in my series of perfume making workshops, this one is in association with the <a href="http://www.meetup.com/Perfume-Lovers-London/events/219029108/">Perfume Lovers London Meet-up Group</a> and follows on from a <a href="http://www.meetup.com/Perfume-Lovers-London/events/218932899/">talk I’m giving the previous Thursday</a> on the use of incense notes in fragrance: you don’t have to be at the talk to do the workshop as here we’ll be focusing on <i>making</i> perfume, while the talk is about <i>enjoying</i> it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The cost for the workshop is<b> £150</b> and includes a vegetarian lunch and refreshments on the day:</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An earlier perfume making workshop in London</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Incense is almost certainly the oldest form of perfume and the burning of incense continues to be a significant part of the religious observance of a huge number of people around the world. Whether for this reason or simply because it smells so attractive the incense note continues to enjoy popularity in modern, alcohol-based, perfumery too.</span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Over the course of the day we'll be investigating the use of a range of ingredients that contribute to the distinctive note of incense including frankincense; myrrh and other natural materials, as well as some of the synthetics that are used and the vital supporting role of some of the other materials involved.</span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">By the end of the day you’ll have had an opportunity to build an alcohol-based fragrance of your own, featuring incense, and you get to take home a bottle of your finished creation. If you’ve never made perfume before I’ll take you through the process step by step, but for those who are already familiar with these techniques you’ll be able to explore the incense materials and how they work together using the range of materials available.</span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Oh and in case you need an extra incentive, did you know there is a gin with an incense note too? We'll have some to taste, towards the end of the day.</span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The venue is a private house in <b>Kew</b> (near to Kew Gardens Underground). Refreshments will be available from 9.30 and the workshop starts at 10am.</span><br />
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Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-48529742102301437882014-12-07T06:23:00.001-08:002014-12-07T06:23:39.891-08:00Pell Wall featured in Management Today<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwhLRhCnnz-IQ2-MA4OQdxesq1tlfzgoBGyzoimWXbj9aCpN7J_9p3ur1BkTAvrH-64ubKMYdCvNuiDXDLephPSSznIKIAudQmg09E3pZ5Xb007q46v5-WCiN-H5UpCv1TAn3hitU2yZWU/s1600/perfumiers49512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwhLRhCnnz-IQ2-MA4OQdxesq1tlfzgoBGyzoimWXbj9aCpN7J_9p3ur1BkTAvrH-64ubKMYdCvNuiDXDLephPSSznIKIAudQmg09E3pZ5Xb007q46v5-WCiN-H5UpCv1TAn3hitU2yZWU/s1600/perfumiers49512.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris Bartlett - Perfumer at Pell Wall</td></tr>
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Pell Wall’s perfumer Chris Bartlett is featured in an article in <a href="http://www.managementtoday.co.uk/news/1323421/uk-perfumes-sweet-smell-success/">Management Today</a>: not an organ of the press most usually associated with perfumery and all the more worth readying for that. Apparently we’re like punk rockers . . .Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-50361481125760371912014-12-06T00:25:00.000-08:002014-12-06T00:25:04.289-08:00New Standard Packaging and luxury gift option<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFc_Ww5K5UapRH1pQyEXqrTRdAZzSrcm71MtX2hhwdgRnm2V2VKU767tPcEmBNZ7NlOUQYgDmAQsPrbq-NPoXVHzvkLuo-qifeoxHVN4H08YAYVeFfHkYS1Mr0OOvTNIiZZaqVFPfIoFiH/s1600/black+and+silver+packaging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFc_Ww5K5UapRH1pQyEXqrTRdAZzSrcm71MtX2hhwdgRnm2V2VKU767tPcEmBNZ7NlOUQYgDmAQsPrbq-NPoXVHzvkLuo-qifeoxHVN4H08YAYVeFfHkYS1Mr0OOvTNIiZZaqVFPfIoFiH/s1600/black+and+silver+packaging.jpg" height="320" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Art Deco Boxes for Pell Wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I’m pleased to report that, just in time for Christmas, our new standard packaging is now in use: 30ml and 100ml bottles will be shipped in these elegant Art Deco style, glossy black boxes as standard from now on.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwt4h5-iruQ5MwrpQdKPyUEFkv1vtZGPfQchXjYL4jHbivPxZH_6-XHTHS1lp_Lbo81ysHlXhyICujwY_Anhq46ir5Yt87EsOdPfl-PtfxZaUeE-Y2nMQEQafi-dtHcQcAVVWlcfm68CTS/s1600/Luxury+Box.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwt4h5-iruQ5MwrpQdKPyUEFkv1vtZGPfQchXjYL4jHbivPxZH_6-XHTHS1lp_Lbo81ysHlXhyICujwY_Anhq46ir5Yt87EsOdPfl-PtfxZaUeE-Y2nMQEQafi-dtHcQcAVVWlcfm68CTS/s1600/Luxury+Box.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luxury Gift Presentation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you’re looking for something even more luxurious for a special gift, we are also offering almost all the range in a tall 100ml bottle, with a magnificent mahogany-finish box: it comes in a protective outer box and can be further gift-boxed free of charge if you order before 20th December.Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com115tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-72171783323440586922014-11-23T02:14:00.001-08:002014-11-23T02:14:20.372-08:00Blood & Soil: a cocktailAnd now for something completely different:<br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">It’s an experiment I've been meaning to do for a while: a martini-style drink using a cocktail beetroot as garnish. I wanted the liquid to be essentially clear, so that as you drink it, you could see the colour bleeding out of the beetroot. At the same time the ingredients have to work with the earthy, sweet quality of the garnish, so that they fit together as a whole.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Here’s what I came up with:<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrOZd4mthGq2ZC-EiWyrwIqGFfeNMBABCNMcbbPydYz3ZthubKRJOyGQu2D-LkbhyKUnpmH-t5h5MtGh_9RiHhKh1XkvqklLlRVxZgOisLh8XQ9Hjp3ISh5q_Ta2PdNHOq5ln7hB-ZKuhH/s1600/Blood-and-Soil-Cocktail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrOZd4mthGq2ZC-EiWyrwIqGFfeNMBABCNMcbbPydYz3ZthubKRJOyGQu2D-LkbhyKUnpmH-t5h5MtGh_9RiHhKh1XkvqklLlRVxZgOisLh8XQ9Hjp3ISh5q_Ta2PdNHOq5ln7hB-ZKuhH/s1600/Blood-and-Soil-Cocktail.jpg" height="320" width="194" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blood and Soil<br />A Cocktail for the Adventurous</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">First prepare the glass with half a very small baby beetroot, speared on a cocktail stick and placed so that the cut edge rests against the glass <span style="font-size: x-small;">(for the sake of the photograph I used a glass at room temperature, but otherwise I’d prefer a frozen glass)</span>. It’s important that the beetroot hasn’t been marinated in loads of vinegar: either plain cooked or with minimal dressing - here I’ve used Waitrose lime zest infused baby beetroot.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">To a shaker with 4 cubes of ice add:</span><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">2 shots of Chase Smoked Vodka</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">2 shots of Ophir gin</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Helvetica;">1/4 bar spoon of Yellow Chartreuse</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">Shake until thoroughly chilled, pour very gently into the glass and serve.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">The picture here was taken about a minute after the pour and as you can see the root is already producing layers and swirls of colour. By the time the cocktail was half consumed it was a uniform dark pink, at which point I ate the garnish: the whole thing worked very well and would make a great party talking point.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">The smoked vodka compliments the spicy Ophir gin perfectly to give an earthy, almost savoury drink, while the small touch of Chartreuse is enough to add a herbal complexity and take the edge off the dryness: a good match with the sweetness of the beetroot.</span><br />
<br />Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-51707542555160325902014-11-09T09:42:00.003-08:002014-11-09T09:42:56.924-08:00Perfume Making Workshops for 2015I’m planning to run another of my One Day Workshops aimed at taking you from an interest in perfume and blending, to making a wearable perfume yourself - the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PellWallPerfumes/photos/a.287266684728089.67678.190092861112139/559982687456486/?type=1&theater">last one was at Les Senteurs</a> - the next will be in February 2015, it will be on a Saturday and at a central London location.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyvzw3_hKHDM6CYRW3rikUfSJ2jjOwHIKnaDzzerunWyBnmGsZQ78TiNzp6TJQJjhBvVBFtpK4GWJgS0QIguuLPFNBhQL8Z7ONL8O8JO2GgSZfRj1JQmMf6NOVEtT1siCmn4zURXAbrE3/s1600/photo+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyvzw3_hKHDM6CYRW3rikUfSJ2jjOwHIKnaDzzerunWyBnmGsZQ78TiNzp6TJQJjhBvVBFtpK4GWJgS0QIguuLPFNBhQL8Z7ONL8O8JO2GgSZfRj1JQmMf6NOVEtT1siCmn4zURXAbrE3/s1600/photo+2.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Workshop at Les Senteurs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I know one or two people like to give these workshops as a Christmas gift, hence I’m advertising it now: full details to follow soon.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3RUyRnalikNoWzAygkI7pGvbIc74Pbr7tXqGPxad28TsyEv-_GqJPIoeZNy8K-mm1MmGOL1yqvtnogwGrRf1mtkuWFYIJYzxM31_v6S1AlaHsdyTgd4kE2TFeUpwpKQ4PpX_PZ8w_SgfD/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3RUyRnalikNoWzAygkI7pGvbIc74Pbr7tXqGPxad28TsyEv-_GqJPIoeZNy8K-mm1MmGOL1yqvtnogwGrRf1mtkuWFYIJYzxM31_v6S1AlaHsdyTgd4kE2TFeUpwpKQ4PpX_PZ8w_SgfD/s1600/photo+3.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a>In addition though, I’d like to use this post to see if there is interest in a more advanced workshop the following day (therefore on a Sunday). The idea would be to look at some more difficult aspects of perfumery than are covered in the basic workshop, perhaps by exploring a category of ingredients: musks or ambers for example, with a view to sorting out the differences between materials and when to use what.<br />
<br />
It has also been suggested to me that some people would like the opportunity for something more like a masterclass where you bring along your own, part-finished work and we have a look together at how best to take it forward.<br />
<br />
I’m open to either or both approaches depending on what people would find most useful: so if you’ve thoughts on these or other ideas of what would be interesting to you, please let me know here and I’ll put together something that suits most contributors.Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-46759387272517210962014-11-09T05:39:00.001-08:002014-11-11T05:01:29.627-08:00Christmas Room Sprays<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAokinYnmHlHmeN_1deTJh3ADNoKerhNr8b1-3N1NNDdNkREAy3gxT3G0-oFWsECdsg_rfgAMoawLB3221BqkhCwLwzS_VpciD3AGvOCpaanii11Pk6wna1B_XhPb1mKqrkgMpbHCQAMte/s1600/Christmas+Room+Sprays+Gold+by+Pell+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAokinYnmHlHmeN_1deTJh3ADNoKerhNr8b1-3N1NNDdNkREAy3gxT3G0-oFWsECdsg_rfgAMoawLB3221BqkhCwLwzS_VpciD3AGvOCpaanii11Pk6wna1B_XhPb1mKqrkgMpbHCQAMte/s320/Christmas+Room+Sprays+Gold+by+Pell+Wall.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px;">Christmas Room Spray by Pell Wall</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After a little <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PellWallPerfumes/photos/a.287266684728089.67678.190092861112139/647440805377340/?type=1&theater">consultation on the Pell Wall Facebook page</a> I’ve decided to make some of these Christmas Room sprays for sale. It’s a strictly limited edition: only one batch will be made this year and it’s just enough to fill the remaining bottles I have of this style (now with gold sprays and lids as all the black ones have sold out):<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
Each bottle contains 100ml and they are <b><span style="color: purple;">£22</span></b> each<br />
<br />
<form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post" target="paypal">
<input name="cmd" type="hidden" value="_s-xclick" />
<input name="hosted_button_id" type="hidden" value="Z8WW3454H68E4" />
<input alt="PayPal – The safer, easier way to pay online." border="0" name="submit" src="http://www.pellwall-perfumes.com/addtocart.gif" type="image" />
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://www.paypalobjects.com/en_GB/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" />
</form>
<b><i>Richly scented with frankincense, myrrh, orange, tangerine, cinnamon and spice for that classic festive effect that everyone loves.</i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
<b><i><br /></i></b>
It’s an alcohol based spray so it will keep happily until next Christmas if you don’t use it all up this year but it’s not intended for use on the skin and mustn’t be sprayed near naked flames.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP2kYKI7yoL2JA0k3kn4p6bfZUYWeB78gY3MVmSF6zlXxj8uqmz9sEJ_vBX-7pY7_BoMKFSYljk5_luIZ3rTvqxtV0IJd5O0W3f6Nkk3DYukwKkqMZg8V5NECJ4VP2gR3-2ksntoIw6oi/s1600/Christmas-Room-Scent-Gift-by-Pell-Wall-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP2kYKI7yoL2JA0k3kn4p6bfZUYWeB78gY3MVmSF6zlXxj8uqmz9sEJ_vBX-7pY7_BoMKFSYljk5_luIZ3rTvqxtV0IJd5O0W3f6Nkk3DYukwKkqMZg8V5NECJ4VP2gR3-2ksntoIw6oi/s1600/Christmas-Room-Scent-Gift-by-Pell-Wall-2.jpg" height="320" width="207" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas Room Scent<br />
Gift Box by Pell Wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
If you want to give it as a gift I can also package one up in a large gift box (big enough to take a wine bottle) along with some pine-cone based potpourri in a matching scent for an extra fiver:<br />
<br />
<form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post" target="paypal">
<input name="cmd" type="hidden" value="_s-xclick" />
<input name="hosted_button_id" type="hidden" value="W4EZ3R4NFPBH4" />
<input alt="PayPal – The safer, easier way to pay online." border="0" name="submit" src="http://www.pellwall-perfumes.com/addtocart.gif" type="image" />
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://www.paypalobjects.com/en_GB/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" /> <b><span style="color: purple;">£27 - Gift boxed</span></b></form>
<br />
<br />
The box is strong, with a magnetic closure on the lid and heavy cord carrying handle so it can be re-used as well.Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-2364890986810556272014-10-31T11:38:00.002-07:002014-10-31T11:38:52.116-07:00The Walking DeadJust for fun, in honour of Hallowe’en I’m presenting a recipe for a variation of my Goth Martini, especially designed to bring a little horror into your evening celebrations (and will certainly horrify any tee-totalers in the party):<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ3ly4XAJpkuaBz5DStOg3Dq54KLDPf4qP2VZ_TqXjIo82hzQUT5i3fSEsCtmlB5Sn1Kq_a9C8WnQNqIlZk6ikodeOImMTtH95SguGJx9HV1c-pS1KRsVJUl9rvB6VTvkhOWmtgDihHjKt/s1600/The+Walking+Dead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ3ly4XAJpkuaBz5DStOg3Dq54KLDPf4qP2VZ_TqXjIo82hzQUT5i3fSEsCtmlB5Sn1Kq_a9C8WnQNqIlZk6ikodeOImMTtH95SguGJx9HV1c-pS1KRsVJUl9rvB6VTvkhOWmtgDihHjKt/s1600/The+Walking+Dead.jpg" height="320" width="241" /></a></div>
<br />
To make this one you need:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Half a shot of <a href="http://www.hapsburgabsinthe.com/">Hapsburg</a> Black Absinthe - if you’re feeling brave you could put a full shot in but as this stuff is 79% alcohol proceed with caution!</li>
<li>1 shot of <a href="http://www.eristoff.com/gl/home#!">Eristoff Black</a> (a sweetish vodka based spirit flavoured with black berries)</li>
<li>4 shots of <a href="http://blavod.com/">Blavod Vodka</a> (unflavoured and actually a very dark green in colour on it’s own)</li>
</ul>
<br />
Shake over ice until a frost forms (Zombies are dead cold after all). The combination makes a deep-black colour and is strong enough to wake the dead.<br />
<br />
If you wanted you could add a black olive as a garnish, but personally I think it works better without.<br />
<br />
Naturally the most sophisticated amongst you will want to drink this while wearing <a href="http://www.pellwall-perfumes.com/artemis/">Artemis</a>, the absinthe based fragrance from Pell Wall ;-)<br />
<br />
Cheers!Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-5449802724789853202014-09-21T05:44:00.000-07:002014-09-21T05:44:03.444-07:00Pell Wall the Maverick<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Pell Wall features with other independent perfumers in the September issue of one of London’s regional upmarket-lifestyle magazines <a href="http://issuu.com/zestmedialondon/docs/abs_southeast_september_2014/37?e=1853878/9168518">Absolutely South East</a> in an article by Lawrence <a href="http://roullierwhite.blogspot.co.uk/2014/09/absolutely-magazine-september-maverick.html">Roullier White</a> on <i>Rebel Perfumers</i> an association I’m rather pleased with: thanks Lawrence!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtHWCInm7872TlPcfKo-E-Q3kTo9pWVL2sdLd9XkiMGVaNWvTZEvkX7n2Evbif7O5iNkpJB-akz9dw-PLEcgJSd3DH49-DKRNSekvM2Mdy1cMeS3_NGcdjhDJSyPUKwzWVfuf61erT_wk/s1600/Absolutely-Magazine-Article.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtHWCInm7872TlPcfKo-E-Q3kTo9pWVL2sdLd9XkiMGVaNWvTZEvkX7n2Evbif7O5iNkpJB-akz9dw-PLEcgJSd3DH49-DKRNSekvM2Mdy1cMeS3_NGcdjhDJSyPUKwzWVfuf61erT_wk/s1600/Absolutely-Magazine-Article.jpg" height="640" width="451" /></a></div>
<br />Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-91215076148398376682014-08-13T08:22:00.000-07:002019-07-28T03:41:28.158-07:00How To Make Perfume<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi241vIj5lf703QnLtDXvZ9IqFzaaLuc5UxxKwzvjrIQhLhUwiO9M4tOEw1oYsPjW3lf68RfQqQAvV3SvePukHVMWf8iT_AwLpaBQlCdjQ2GLlgydJ3s8cRH6ypCwSY_ll2BRMa8CWEb00v/s1600/perfume_spread_indy_on_sunday.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi241vIj5lf703QnLtDXvZ9IqFzaaLuc5UxxKwzvjrIQhLhUwiO9M4tOEw1oYsPjW3lf68RfQqQAvV3SvePukHVMWf8iT_AwLpaBQlCdjQ2GLlgydJ3s8cRH6ypCwSY_ll2BRMa8CWEb00v/s1600/perfume_spread_indy_on_sunday.tiff" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The spread at the beginning of <a href="http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/surreal-life-of-the-amateur-perfumer-hazmat-couriers-guesswork-and-badger-excrement-9639040.html">the article</a><br />
as it appeared in print on 3rd August 2014</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you want to make perfume yourself and are looking for help to get you started, this is the place. Here are links to methods, sources of ingredients, recommended equipment and advice: everything I wished I could find when I started out myself!<br />
<br />
On the 3rd of August the <a href="http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/surreal-life-of-the-amateur-perfumer-hazmat-couriers-guesswork-and-badger-excrement-9639040.html">Independent on Sunday ran an article</a>, which featured on the front page of the magazine, on the theme of how difficult it is to get started in perfumery whether you intend it as a hobby or, as I did, want to make a living at it. I was interviewed for that article along with several other independent and amateur perfumers.<br />
<br />
The article is by <a href="http://rhodri.biz/">Rhodri Marsden</a> and the accompanying photography by <a href="http://www.danburnforti.com/">Dan Burn-Forti</a>. Dan has kindly supplied me with pictures from the photo-shoot we did for the piece and I’m featuring some of the ones that were not used in the article in this post.<br />
<br />
I don’t propose to repeat any of what was said in the article here - it stands on it’s own - what I do want to do is to provide here some links and tips that may be helpful to those starting out or struggling with some of the problems the article highlights.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaxpyIdYHNLoEIsTp0oxD186Ruu-wLPVzjAAgibZEQEvNJrmvprki-RpyqYQY5UeN7oVJ_qWVhrPoinzCzWfTE0NpajWGRCReE9mLyfjfjwV8BFhhA2gY46c2PgaCRJy5h5VG0zBUIketK/s1600/perfumiers49626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaxpyIdYHNLoEIsTp0oxD186Ruu-wLPVzjAAgibZEQEvNJrmvprki-RpyqYQY5UeN7oVJ_qWVhrPoinzCzWfTE0NpajWGRCReE9mLyfjfjwV8BFhhA2gY46c2PgaCRJy5h5VG0zBUIketK/s1600/perfumiers49626.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the ingredients store<br />
at Pell Wall <span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="text-align: start;">by </span><a href="http://www.danburnforti.com/" style="text-align: start;">Dan Burn-Forti</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So, first up if you’re looking for <b>ingredients</b> and don’t have the budget or space for an array such as we have at Pell Wall, where can you go to get supplies in smaller amounts?<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://pellwall.com/product-category/ingredients-for-perfumery/" target="_blank">Pell Wall</a> sell one of the largest ranges of perfumery materials available online in quantities from 10ml / 10g upwards, and can also offer a comprehensive range of <a href="https://pellwall.com/product-category/ingredients-for-perfumery/kits/" target="_blank">starter kits</a>.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.hexapus.nl/en/shop/webshop.htm">De Hekserij</a> in the Netherlands have a good range and now also an English language website which makes ordering much easier for those of us who don’t speak Dutch</li>
<li><a href="http://perfumersupplyhouse.com/">Perfumer’s Supply House</a> in the USA have a growing range including some very unusual ingredients</li>
<li><a href="http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/c-107-perfumers-apprentice-perfume-creation.aspx">Perfumer’s Apprentice</a> in the USA have a large range including most of the basics you’ll need.</li>
</ul>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglk3l3uqxuRKbf5MymrmRBT7trly7GklMCrSbiGiUgXhLC99fGIttzODMHgI_VMg0u8-hnPV3iU84zwfegFFGODIxca-abagi_tmMtnf0Jfad9VGcgg1-8HyFavoHry6fEmlN-pRt7NTVE/s1600/perfumiers49512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglk3l3uqxuRKbf5MymrmRBT7trly7GklMCrSbiGiUgXhLC99fGIttzODMHgI_VMg0u8-hnPV3iU84zwfegFFGODIxca-abagi_tmMtnf0Jfad9VGcgg1-8HyFavoHry6fEmlN-pRt7NTVE/s1600/perfumiers49512.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris in the Lab at Pell Wall<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="text-align: start;">by </span><a href="http://www.danburnforti.com/" style="text-align: start;">Dan Burn-Forti</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
All the above are reliable suppliers I’m comfortable recommending. Those in Europe should keep in mind that ordering from the US will mean you’ll need to pay both VAT and Duty on import - exactly how that works depends on the courier the supplier uses - talk to them first so you know what to expect - however the reverse case isn’t so bad as the US does not charge duty on import for most perfumery materials. Shipping is also a significant factor when ordering from abroad, so I recommend looking at suppliers as close to your own location as possible first.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
For help with learning the art itself I’m going to point to other more detailed posts offering help:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2012/06/method-for-blending.html">Blending and dilution</a> methods</li>
<li>How to <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2012/05/weight-or-volume.html">measure ingredients and what sort of scales</a> to buy</li>
<li>The <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2012/09/starting-equipment.html">equipment you’ll need to get started</a> and where to find it</li>
<li>which <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2012/05/starter-kit-for-diy-perfume-making.html">ingredients to buy</a> to get started</li>
<li>Natural ingredients: <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/natural-perfume-materials-what-terms.html">what the terms for various types of extraction</a> mean</li>
<li>The <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2012/04/ifra-standards-international-fragrance.html">IFRA regulations</a></li>
<li>The <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2012/10/the-26-ingredients.html">EU labelling declaration</a> requirements</li>
<li>Some of the <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/books-about-perfumes-and-perfumery.html">books I recommend</a> to learn about the art</li>
</ul>
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3MyxqX-bpQoC_3tVh9iXU5N0vJ9TpJRe2nIQJGOaVNs0CTvbkLXx3Mz_OzDOSlKjBOssrs5YjBixgP9fN0jidLHaex51mjgGFit74mkqLxsuOcp-2MvRhhZRbs1VJnDl42e6oQVCNyon/s1600/perfumiers49587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3MyxqX-bpQoC_3tVh9iXU5N0vJ9TpJRe2nIQJGOaVNs0CTvbkLXx3Mz_OzDOSlKjBOssrs5YjBixgP9fN0jidLHaex51mjgGFit74mkqLxsuOcp-2MvRhhZRbs1VJnDl42e6oQVCNyon/s1600/perfumiers49587.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More ingredients than you can shake a stick<br />
(or a smelling strip) at <span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="text-align: start;">by </span><a href="http://www.danburnforti.com/" style="text-align: start;">Dan Burn-Forti</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Places you can go to get some training or practice in the UK include:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>My own workshops in London or Shropshire - advertised on this blog as they come up</li>
<li><a href="http://www.cotswold-perfumery.co.uk/courses/perfumery-courses">The Cotswold Perfumery</a> where perfumer John Stephen runs regular courses and, once you’ve attended one, will also sell you ingredients and equipment.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.karengilbert.co.uk/">Karen Gilber</a>t runs courses online and in London covering making perfume and skincare</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Some detailed posts about particular ingredients:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/ambergris.html">Ambergris</a></li>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/ambergris-substitutes-clarification-of.html">Ambergris substitutes</a></li>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/artemisia-and-how-to-identify-natural.html">Artemisia</a> species</li>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/bitter-almond-oil.html">Bitter Almond</a> Oil</li>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/lily-of-valley-mystery-manufacture.html">Lily of the Valley</a> materials</li>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/musk.html">Musks</a></li>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/the-quinolines.html" target="_blank">Quinolenes</a></li>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/sandalwood.html">Sandalwood</a></li>
<li><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/styrax-storax.html">Styrax and Storax</a> species</li>
</ul>
<div>
If all that didn’t answer your questions, you’ll need somewhere else to turn: I’m adding things to this blog all the time, so do please keep a watch here. I’m also one of many people, including some other fully qualified perfumers, who answer questions, collaborate with one another and generally exchange information about this fascinating art and science in two main forums:</div>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>The Basenotes <a href="http://www.basenotes.net/forums/15-Fragrance-DIY">Fragrance DIY</a> Forum</li>
<li>The Yahoo <a href="https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/perfumemaking/info">Perfumemaking</a> Group</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
Join up on either or both and add your voice to the conversation. <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2V3siA4hfK-bBb8Wh_qldw9d1hGh6IwAvUWH75HZa7rkL5bHndIQCbNzg0Vm15QrpGdTRomprscexFHkrnEywM_X8_A18-wNhIT3-dLKZyeYumZyXDH_SnfK8-uTx18b6Ou1CldM-H_Lo/s1600/perfumiers49611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2V3siA4hfK-bBb8Wh_qldw9d1hGh6IwAvUWH75HZa7rkL5bHndIQCbNzg0Vm15QrpGdTRomprscexFHkrnEywM_X8_A18-wNhIT3-dLKZyeYumZyXDH_SnfK8-uTx18b6Ou1CldM-H_Lo/s1600/perfumiers49611.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris and Jungle (one of the Pell Wall Pack) in one of the<br />
ingredients stores at Pell Wall <span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="text-align: start;">by </span><a href="http://www.danburnforti.com/" style="text-align: start;">Dan Burn-Forti</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Finally, let me just add that if you’re looking for specific advice or assistance with any perfumery problem and, for whatever reason, you don’t want to post about it on those public forums I’m willing to help - for a small fee - check the <a href="https://pellwall.com/product/perfumery-consultation/" target="_blank">consultation section</a> of the website for details.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Happy perfume making!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-7701695111381427912014-08-10T02:45:00.001-07:002014-09-08T07:17:03.100-07:00Sandalwood found to have wound healing effects<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The implications of a fascinating piece of new research could be widespread: </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.ruhr-uni-bochum.de/images/hp-slider/Icon_Buch_700x300px_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="http://www.ruhr-uni-bochum.de/images/hp-slider/Icon_Buch_700x300px_2.jpg" height="85" width="200" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Researchers at the <span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://www.ruhr-uni-bochum.de/index_en.htm" target="_blank">Ruhr-Universität Bochum</a></span> in Germany have found that not only are there olfactory receptors in the top layer of human skin, but have shown that a particular sandalwood odourant can trigger those receptors resulting in increased growth and migration in the surrounding cells.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.ruhr-uni-bochum.de/images/hp-slider/uni-suedansicht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="85" src="https://www.ruhr-uni-bochum.de/images/hp-slider/uni-suedansicht.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As this is such new research, there is every chance that other odourants will, in the future, be found to have similar or perhaps quite different effects on the skin with obvious implications for their use in perfumery as well as for medical and other applications.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This research, led by </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dr Daniela Busse and Prof Dr Dr Dr med habil Hanns Hatt from the Department for Cellphysiology <a href="http://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2014-07/rb-ssf070814.php" target="_blank">published their report in the "</a></span><i style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2014-07/rb-ssf070814.php" target="_blank">Journal of Investigative Dermatology</a></i><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">”. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.hermitageoils.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/375x215/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/s/a/sandalwood4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.hermitageoils.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/375x215/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/s/a/sandalwood4.jpg" height="114" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.hermitageoils.com/sandalwood-collection/sandalore" target="_blank">There are many synthetic sandalwood<br />odourants of which this is one</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reporting of the findings appears in <a href="http://time.com/2969963/sandalwood-scent-heal-wounds/" target="_blank">Time</a> but they don’t mention there, the answer to the question that will be uppermost in the minds of perfume-makers: which specific odourant has this effect?</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The answer is it was <b>Sandalore</b> (a brand name owned by Givaudan) or</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; text-align: center; text-decoration: none;"><a href="http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1026291.html#inchi1" style="text-align: center; text-decoration: none;">3-methyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethyl-1-cyclopent-3-enyl)pentan-2-ol</a>, if you prefer the chemical designation.</span>Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-55039709878630291062014-08-04T11:03:00.001-07:002014-08-04T11:03:32.309-07:00100 years ago today What was to become known as the First World War started 100 years ago today and while most people are commemorating the anniversary with the now conventional poppies I have something slightly different to offer:<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.poppas-papers.co.uk/daffodil/images/daffodil_small.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.poppas-papers.co.uk/daffodil/images/daffodil_small.png" height="249" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A 1st World War Daffodil</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Here is a picture of a humble pressed daffodil in remembrance of my dear grandfather who - in a moment of wild romance - picked it in the midst of battle and sent it home.<br />
<br />
I’ll reproduce here the story in memory of one of the heroes who came home, no less to be remembered than those who died in the conflict, no less heroic, but as he described himself in one of his last letters home a “<i>lucky blighter</i>”. You can read more about him on <a href="http://www.poppas-papers.co.uk/" target="_blank">the website I created in his memory</a>.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #663366; font-family: Verdana, Helvetica, non-serif;">I first heard the story of how the daffodil came to be collected and preserved from Poppa (Cyril Bartlett) when I was a young boy. I can remember him clearly telling the story with a great deal of drama and I recall at the time being impressed by it, but not really understanding. </span><br style="color: #663366; font-family: Verdana, Helvetica, non-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="color: #663366; font-family: Verdana, Helvetica, non-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><span style="color: #663366; font-family: Verdana, Helvetica, non-serif;">Years later I would hear the same story in a very different context from Nanny (Jessica Bartlett) – I’ll come to that, what matters for now is that it was the same story. Here it is, as accurately as I can render it: </span><br />
<div class="blockquote" style="color: #663366; font-family: 'Handwriting - Dakota', Helvetica, non-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 50px;">
<br /><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">One damp spring day, while fighting in the trenches in France, Cyril noticed, out in the distance, in the no-mans-land between his and his enemies’ trenches, a daffodil just coming into flower. He resolved then, that if it were still there that night he would have it to send home. As evening fell, the flower was still there, by now fully open; so Cyril crawled out into no-mans-land </b>[I can see him now making crawling motions with his elbows and giving dramatic emphasis to the need to keep his head right down in case he should be spotted by an enemy sniper]. <b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">He reached the flower, picked it, held the stem carefully in his mouth and turned, crawling with equal care back to his own trench. There the flower was carefully pressed and sent home.</b></div>
<div style="color: #663366; float: left; font-family: Verdana, Helvetica, non-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 15px 10px 0px 0px; width: 560px;">
The first time I heard this tale; it was a thrilling story of daring from a world of danger that appeared exciting and remote. The second time I heard it (or at least the second that I can remember clearly – I suspect Poppa told us grandchildren the story more than once) it was in the late summer of 1979. I had spent the summer holiday that year helping to nurse Poppa through his final illness and after the funeral I returned to Gayfield to help Nanny sort through his things: it was a difficult time for both of us. The daffodil was stored at that time between the leaves of a book – I had long since forgotten all about it until Nanny showed it to me and re-told the story I’ve related above, though without the dramatic embellishments. By now I was old enough to understand it as a story of deep love and the mad, romantic gesture of commitment and longing that it really was.</div>
<div style="color: #663366; float: left; font-family: Verdana, Helvetica, non-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 15px 10px 0px 0px; width: 560px;">
Stored with the daffodil, with all the other papers, is a pressed fuchsia, which I believe Jessie sent back to Cyril in a return letter and he retained and brought home from the war. The note you can see in the scan here is written in Cyril's own hand some years after he came home, and after he saw his own sons go off to fight in the Second World War. <br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" />For me those brown and tattered, flattened flowers have always been the most potent symbol of the love between my grandparents that was the backdrop to my childhood.</div>
<div style="float: left; font-family: Verdana, Helvetica, non-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 15px 10px 0px 0px; width: 560px;">
<b>In remembrance of all those caught up in the terrible tragedy of the Great War whether they came home or not.</b></div>
<div style="float: left; font-family: Verdana, Helvetica, non-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 15px 10px 0px 0px; width: 560px;">
<b>A daffodil.</b></div>
Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6150344713929000622.post-22979525703765205682014-07-30T11:37:00.000-07:002015-05-16T03:38:40.084-07:00Lily of the Valley – mystery, manufacture & murder<h2>
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-large;">Mystery</span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Perfumery has always glorified the floral and for centuries perfumers
have sought ways to extract the essence from real flowers to incorporate into
their creations. With many flowers this quest has met with considerable
success, with a few commercially viable products produced that are still used
in modern perfumery: rose and jasmine being the primary examples.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1b/Lily_of_the_valley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1b/Lily_of_the_valley.jpg" height="242" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Lily of the Valley</b> - <span style="font-size: xx-small;">picture courtesy of <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lily_of_the_valley.jpg" target="_blank">Wikimedia Commons</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
One flower that has always eluded extraction is the Lily of the Valley (<i><a href="https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/details?plantid=522" target="_blank">Convallaria majalis</a></i>) or Muguet<span style="font-family: Symbol;">*</span>: distillation yields very little of an
unpleasant smelling oil not a bit like the dense, exotic scent of the fresh
flowers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.com/2013/07/natural-perfume-materials-what-terms.html" target="_blank">Solvent extraction and even modern CO2 extracts</a> have similarly been completely unable to capture the
scent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is because the flower
produces the scent only at the point of release – none is stored in the flower
– so it cannot be extracted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
flower itself only contains pre-cursor chemicals from which the scent is formed
directly into the air.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/st/10210705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/st/10210705.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diorrissimo - <span style="font-size: xx-small;">picture from <a href="http://www.basenotes.net/content/" target="_blank">Basenotes</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
Yet many people will be familiar with the scent of Lily of the Valley,
not through smelling the fresh flowers, but from perfumes containing or
replicating its scent – perhaps the most famous of these being <a href="http://www.basenotes.net/ID10210705.html" target="_blank">Diorissimo</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So, if you can’t extract the scent, how
is that done?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="ftn">
<div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: right;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">*</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Muguet is the French word for Lily of the Valley, a flower popularly used at weddings. Lily of the valley is a sweetly scented (and highly poisonous) woodland flowering plant that is native throughout the cool temperate Northern Hemisphere in Asia, Europe and in the southern Appalachian Mountains in the United States.</span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Cambria;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-large;">Manufacture</span><o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
Here we see how the chemist is the perfumers best friend: a
good number of materials have been discovered or created that replicate, at
least in part, the scent of these mysterious flowers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many people would say that synthetic Lily of the Valley
begins with the synthesis in the early part of the 20<sup>th</sup> Century of
<a href="http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1000972.html" target="_blank"><i>Hydroxycitronellal</i></a>: it’s difficult to be sure exactly when it was first used
because the nature of the material was kept a closely guarded secret.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What we do know is that as early as
1906 it was being made by Givaudan and sold under the trade name <i>Laurine</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://webapps.jhu.edu/namedprofessorships/images/111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://webapps.jhu.edu/namedprofessorships/images/111.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Dr E Emmet Reid</b><br />
Credited with re-discovering Hydroxycitronellal<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Image from <span style="background-color: white; color: #003366; font-family: garamond;"><a href="https://webapps.jhu.edu/namedprofessorships/professorshipdetail.cfm?professorshipID=64" target="_blank">The Johns Hopkins University</a></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span>At the outbreak of WWI it was being
manufactured in Germany and, as the war meant it ceased to be available,
efforts were made to find ways to make it that resulted in it’s being manufactured
in an American factory and, during the 20s, it gradually become well-known
within the trade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most perfumers
would agree that, while no one chemical can ever fully represent the scent of a
flower, hydroxycitronellal gives a very close facsimile to the aroma of the
fresh flowers of Lily of the Valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Curiously enough however it does not appear to be present in that, or
any other natural flower scent.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
I’m presenting in the sections at the end of this post, descriptions of
a selection of materials that replicate the scent of Lilly of the Valley, with
descriptions of their olfactory properties as well as, in many cases, the
restrictions on their use that have led to their decline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These are mainly for the benefit of DIY
perfumers, but may also be of interest to perfumistas curious about
ingredients.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve included quite a
few quotations from <a href="http://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Perfume_and_Flavor_Chemicals.html?id=jP--SgAACAAJ&redir_esc=y" target="_blank">Steffen Arctander’s wonderful descriptions of aroma chemicals</a> –
rather less well known than <a href="http://www.alluredbooks.com/Arctander-s-Perfume-and-Flavor-Materials-of-Natural-Origin-p31.html" target="_blank">his work on materials of natural origin</a> – but just
as good.<o:p></o:p></div>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-large;">Murder</span><o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6c/Lyral.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6c/Lyral.png" height="87" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Structure of <b>Lyral</b> - <span style="font-size: xx-small;">image courtesy <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lyral.png" target="_blank">Wikimedia Commons</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
So where does the murder come in?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Well in one case a forthcoming ban by the European Union will, over the
next couple of years, result in the certain demise from perfumery altogether of
one of those materials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
material that is being killed off by the regulators is Lyral and although it’s
only going to be banned in the EU, that will very likely be reflected in a
prohibition by IFRA (the <a href="http://www.ifrauk.org/" target="_blank">International Fragrance Association</a>) and even if it isn’t all the major perfume manufacturers
will phase it out of use completely, so it will effectively vanish from the
world.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
After the jump you can read detailed descriptions of a range of materials used in connection with Lily of the Valley scents.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"></span><br />
<a name='more'></a></div>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-large;">The Technical Stuff</span></span></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
The descriptions that follow are in alphabetical order by the name most
commonly used for the material.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This isn’t a complete list of everything ever used for Muguet fragances,
but it does cover all the common materials with a clear muguet note as well as
one or two of the main modifiers. Where applicable I’ve mentioned the <a href="http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/ifra-standards-international-fragrance.html" target="_blank">IFRA limitation</a> for alcoholic fine fragrances (not including aftershaves).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 4.0pt;">
<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/Convallaria_majalis_0002.JPG/640px-Convallaria_majalis_0002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/Convallaria_majalis_0002.JPG/640px-Convallaria_majalis_0002.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a>I’m indebted to many sources besides my own experience for this material, but primarily the already credited Arctander, the major manufacturers of the materials concerned and <a href="http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/index.html" target="_blank">The Good Scents Company</a> who maintain an excellent online database of perfumery materials, plus of course <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/" target="_blank">Wikimedia</a> for the remaining images. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br />
<h1>
</h1>
<h1>
Bourgeonal<o:p></o:p></h1>
<h2>
CAS Number: 18127-01-0<o:p></o:p></h2>
<h2>
Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<b><i>3-(4-tert-butylphenyl)propanal<o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
Very powerful and
once widely used, this is one of the earliest Lily of the Valley chemicals. This description is from Givaudan: “<i>Odor:
Floral, Green, Muguet, Fresh, Powerful.
Use: Bourgeonal is a powerful, diffusive fresh floral muguet, with a
watery green character. Its unique muguet-aldehyde character is extensively
used in toiletries and alcoholic fragrances.</i>”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Today its use is
limited by IFRA to 0.5% of the product<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<h1>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6150344713929000622" name="_Toc243232430"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></a></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cyclamen
Aldehyde</span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 103-95-7<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">3-(4-propan-2-ylphenyl)butanal<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/58/Cyclamen_libanoticum01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/58/Cyclamen_libanoticum01.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Powerful and
versatile, the odour is described as: floral cyclamen, fresh, rhubarb, musty
and green. Unlike many aldehydes it is stable in most media and its
substantivity makes it very useful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Not quite as strong as some aldehydes it is still most often used in
dilution.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Arctander</b> describes it
as “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Diffusive and powerful floral-green,
floral-stem like odor with pronounced vegetable</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cucumber-Melon-like notes. Overall resembling the odor of
Lindenblossom.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Extensively used in perfumery for floral
effects, fresh-green-floral topnotes (of lasting fragrance), Useful in Lilac,
Lily, Peony, Magnolia, Orangeblossom, Alpine Violet, etc.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Blends well with the Ionones and all Rose
notes.</span></i><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6150344713929000622" name="_Toc243232437"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc254039670;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></a></h1>
<h1>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6150344713929000622" name="_Toc254039670"></a><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc254039670;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Dupical<o:p></o:p></span></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc254039670;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 30168-23-1<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc254039670;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc254039670;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">4-(octahydro-4,7-methano-5H-inden-5-ylidene)butanal
<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc254039670;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc254039670;">A
Givaudan product described by them as “<i>Odor: Floral, Green, Muguet, Fresh.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use: Dupical is a powerful, fresh,
transparent aldehydic muguet. It is a wonderful modifier and enhancer of the
muguet character in a fragrance. Thanks to its powerful performance, it can be
used in all applications.</i>”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Typical
aldehydic strength restricts the amount of this material that appears in
fragrances to 3% or (usually much less) of the concentrate.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<h1>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc254039670;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc254039670;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Farnesol</span></span></span><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 4602-84-0<o:p></o:p></span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,6,10-trien-1-ol</span></i></b></span><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: #104abc; font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The odour is described as a delicate, fresh,
green muguet note; mild, sweet, linden-floral and angelica but also as having
fruity and spicy aspects such as anise; apricot; balsam; clove; grapefruit;
oily; orange; peach; pear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Farnesol is one of the classic perfumery
ingredients and is present in many flowers and herbs from neroli to wild thyme.
Once reserved only for the most expensive fragrances it became more widely
available at the end of the 1960s when synthesis methods improved.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Recommended usage levels are from traces to
1.2% of the finished product (the IFRA limit for alcoholic fragrances).
Tenacity is impressive at around 16 days on a smelling strip meaning it is a
base note, but it has middle-note effects as well. It is stable in soaps and
lotions.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><b>Arctander</b> recommends it as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“an excellent background note and blender in the delicate floral such
as Muguet, Lilac, etc. or in the balsamic types, Oriental fragrances, Chypres
etc. It combines the softest woody notes of Orris with the sweet and balsamic
floral notes of Muguet, Rose, Magnolia, Acacia, etc. It blends excellently with
Ylang Ylang, Cassie, Rose, Violet, Neroli, Cyclamen, etc. and it is an almost
necessary ingredient in the so-called ‘Linden- blossom’ type fragrance.</i>”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
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<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Limited by IFRA to
1.2% of the finished fragrance.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232437;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Floralozone</span></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 67634-15-5<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal</i></b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Also called Ozone
Propanal and Florazon this is a powerful material, made by IFF (International
Flavors and Fragrances), and is described by them like this “Powerful, clean,
green, fresh air note reminiscent of ocean breezes. Gives lift to fragrances
without dominating due to its neutral nature“ <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Floralozone can be
used to give a subtle, fresh lift to almost any fragrance when used in small
amounts but it is especially useful in floral (especially Muguet) compositions
– use too much and the fragrance may become too ozonic however.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Used in moderation it is ideal
for adding a ‘fresh-air’ note to fragrances.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6150344713929000622" name="_Toc243232438"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></a></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Florhydral</span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 125109-85-5<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">3-(3-propan-2-ylphenyl)butanal</i></b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/59/Maigloeckchen_3.jpg/1280px-Maigloeckchen_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/59/Maigloeckchen_3.jpg/1280px-Maigloeckchen_3.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
Also called Floral
Butanal this is a powerful material, made by Givaudan, and is described by them
like this “<i>Floral, Green, Muguet, Fresh, Powerful. Florhydral has a very
floral, fresh, trendy, natural odour (such as lily-of-the-valley, hyacinth...).
Its great intensity and pleasant quality make it useful in all areas of
perfumery. Florhydral is also valuable in fragrances for laundry products where
a fresh residual odour is desired. Florhydral gives naturalness together with
aldehydes in citrus accords."</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">A superb freshening
agent in any floral context, it exalts citrus very well and of course is ideal
where you need a Lilly of the Valley note that isn’t restricted by IFRA.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Best used sparingly except in
Lilly of the Valley applications.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Recommended usage is 0.2-2% and tenacity is a week on a smelling strip,
this material also works well in burning applications such as candles and joss
sticks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6150344713929000622" name="_Toc243232443"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></a></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Helional<o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 1205-17-0<o:p></o:p></span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">3-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal</i></b><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;">Also called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">ocean
propanal </i>this product was developed by IFF, who describe it like this: “<i>Green,
floral (cyclemen) with top notes of ozone and new mown hay.</i>” I’m not sure they
are doing it justice – this is a lovely ingredient with a wonderfully fresh,
watery quality.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Helional is very easy to use, providing a
fresh, light quality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It blends
well with other green notes and is one of very few such notes that can be used
fairly freely – unlike many green fragrance materials it isn’t so strong
that you have to use it with caution to avoid overdoing it.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
Limited by IFRA to 5.3% of the finished fragrance, but that’s plenty to have a good impact.</div>
<h1>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232443;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Hydroxycitronellal</span></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 107-75-5<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">7-hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/37/Convallaria-majalis-flowers.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/37/Convallaria-majalis-flowers.JPG" height="257" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">One of the best of the range of
synthetics used to recreate the scent of the Lily of the Valley (muguet).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like most of the other materials that
imitate that flower it is an aldehyde.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hydroxycitronellal is widely regarded as the single most accurate
representation of the Lily of the Valley flower used in fine fragrance and
other areas and combines well with other floral and green materials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The scent is described as having
sweet-floral perfume-like notes with green citrus and melon undertones. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Vintage versions of
fragrances such as Diorrisimo used large amounts of this material, but today its
use is limited by IFRA to 1% of the product.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6150344713929000622" name="_Toc243232447"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc257652677;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></a></h1>
<h1>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6150344713929000622" name="_Toc257652677"></a><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc257652677;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Hydroxycitronellol</span></span><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 107-74-4<o:p></o:p></span></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name: </span></span></h2>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><b><i>3,7-dimethyloctane-1,7-diol</i></b></span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Odour type is floral with a low odour strength
has a mild, clean, floral note and is very long lasting and closer to rose than
muguet, with aspects of lily and peony. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Excellent fixative and essential
stabiliser for the better-known aldehyde (hydroxycitronellal).<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><b>Arctander</b> gives more information: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;">“V<i>ery mild (weak) clean-sweet, floral odour of
considerable tenacity. The floral type is Rose-Peony, typically less green,
less Lily or Muguet than the aldehyde.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>He goes on to tell us that this alcohol, now often manufactured as an
intermediate in the production of Hydroxycitronellal, is used in perfume
compositions originally with the intention of stabilizing Hydroxycitronellal
and prolonging the odour life of that aldehyde in composition.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><i>However, there are other uses for this alcohol,
not always obvious from a brief glimpse at the odour, which is, truly, not
immediately impressive. It has an excellent fixative effect upon many types of
delicate floral fragrance, and as a blender/modifier for other types.<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><i>The use of Hydroxycitronellol as a stabilizer
for Hydroxycitronellal is still practised, but the author finds that the
alcohol has much wider possibilities and virtues of its own as an odorant.</i>”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc243232447;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Lilial</span></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 80-54-6<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">3-(4-tert-butylphenyl)butanal</i></b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">One of a range of
synthetics used to recreate the scent of the Lily of the Valley (muguet).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like most of the other materials that
imitate that flower it is an aldehyde.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Lilial is widely used in fine fragrance and other areas and combines
well with other floral and green materials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The scent is described as floral muguet, watery, green,
powdery and cumin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Its use is limited
by IFRA to 1.9% of the product.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Lyral<o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 31906-04-4<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde</i></b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Maigloeckchen_4.jpg/1280px-Maigloeckchen_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/19/Maigloeckchen_4.jpg/1280px-Maigloeckchen_4.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More <a href="http://ksh.wikipedia.org/wiki/" target="_blank">Convallaria majalis</a>, here with a suitably blood-red<br />
background for the soon-to-be-murdered Lyral!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
Synonyms include: cyclohexal, kovanol, leeral, mugonal, HICC, HMPCC</div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">One of a range of
synthetics used to recreate the scent of the Lily of the Valley (muguet).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like most of the other materials that
imitate that flower it is an aldehyde.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Lilial is widely used in fine fragrance and other areas and combines
well with other floral and green materials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The scent is described as floral muguet, watery, green,
powdery and cumin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Its use is already limited
by IFRA to 0.2% of the product and it is about to be banned altogether by the
EU, which will almost certainly result in it vanishing from perfumer’s palettes
worldwide.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6150344713929000622" name="_Toc257652681"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></a></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Melafleur</span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 68991-97-9<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name: <o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">8,8-dimethyl-2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydro-1H-naphthalene-2-carbaldehyde<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
Synonyms
include: cyclemone A; cyclomugual; muguet carboxaldehyde<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Odour type is
floral, with a medium odour strength: floral, clean, muguet, ozone, marine,
sandy and balsamic.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Manufactured by IFF
who say this of it: “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A substantive floral
muguet product having the odour of fresh outdoors with a green, melony
background</i>.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Useful in a wide
range of fragrances to give a fresh lift as well as extremely helpful when
you’re trying to create a good Muguet and have run up against the IFRA limits
on the more widely used materials in this category as Melafleur has no
restriction and can form up to 15% of your concentrate if you wish.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Mugetanol<o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>63767-86-2<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">1-(4-propan-2-ylcyclohexyl)ethanol<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-weight: normal;">Synonym: </span>Muguet ethanol<br />
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Produced by Symrise,
this is another unrestricted alternative to the older Lily of the Valley
ingredients, described by them thus: “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Odor:
light floral, reminiscent of muguet, with waxy elements</i>”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Particularly useful
because, being an alcohol, it is more stable than many of the others and has no IFRA restrictions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Precyclemone B<o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>52474-60-9<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">1-methyl-3-(4-methylpent-3-enyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Also called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">myrmac aldehyde </i>this material is
manufactured by IFF, who describe it like this: “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Clean, tenacious, ozone note with aldehydic warmth and diffusion.
Booster for fragrances requiring a fresh outdoors effect</i>.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Best used in small
amounts, this is a really excellent fresh-air ingredient. </span>With Precyclemone B
you get a very long-lasting freshening effect that works exceptionally well in
citrus fragrances where you want to prolong the fresh feel beyond the life of
the short-lived citrus oils. In traces
it can lighten almost any perfume, larger amounts can be used in
room-fresheners and marine compositions.</div>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Silvial<o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 6658-48-6<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name: </span></h2>
<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;"><b><i>2-methyl-3-[4-(2-methylpropyl)phenyl]propanal</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">Synonym: </span>cyclamen homoaldehyde<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Floral, green,
aldehydic and marine this is a powerful and very persistent ingredient
manufactured by Givaudan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
ideal for use in Lily of the Valley fragrances and works well with other muguet
ingredients.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Givaudan describe it
like this: “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Silvial is a powerful,
vibrant muguet ingredient with a slight citrus undertone and a fresh, aldehydic
touch that is used in perfumery in the same way as related muguet products</i>”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It is restricted by
IFRA to 1.04% of the finished alcoholic fragrance (in aftershaves the amount is
only 0.55%) though that’s plenty to give impact as this material is so powerful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Undecavertol<o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">CAS Number: 81782-77-6<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Full chemical name:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">(E)-4-methyldec-3-en-5-ol</i></b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5b/Viola_reichenbachiana_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5b/Viola_reichenbachiana_001.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">An unusual material,
also known as Violet Decenol, this is a brilliant ingredient for many floral
blends that helps to bring out the floral and fruity aspects of other
materials. </span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Description from Givaudan: "<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Undecavertol
was developed in connection with structural elucidation work on unknown trace
components of lily-of-the-valley. It has a powerful green-floral character,
somewhat related to lily-of-the-valley, with natural, fresh, fruity violet leaf
and linden-blossom aspects. It can be used successfully in rose and fruity pear
accords. Although easy to use in most perfumery types, Undecavertol requires
careful dosage and blending due to its exceptional strength</i>."<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyText">
<br /></div>
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Chris Bhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15466004993105500439noreply@blogger.com3